Thread: Slipping Clutch - Replaced - still slipping Defender TD5

Hi Guys

Been a while since I have posted.. life has been crazy and more so recently..

I have an issue with the defender td5 .. The clutch was replaced a few years back with a HD valeo full kit including DM flywheel. Its been good until recently - although it hasnt had much use over the last year.. Started driving it again and getting it ready for a towing trip and noticed the clutch slipping even without towing.. mainly in 4th and 5th.. and when warm - It also had a judder on take off.

Being a bit too busy I sent it in to have it looked at. Master cylinder adjusted.. still slipped.. so resigned to the fact i'd need the box removing..

Took it in to a local landrover specialist (who I am happy with as are many others) who reports today that a new clutch kit has not resolved the issue and the flywheel is fine.. No adjustments make any difference.. and slips as low as 3rd... They were thinking its just too torquey on boost (mapped, allard intercooler, td5 inside turbo) so the pressure plate wasnt dealing with it.. so have suggested a solid flywheel and hd clutch, which I had pondered on the previous change.. I have agreed.. and we are hoping it will deal with it..

Now the clutch on the defender is a simple thing 2 hydraulic cylinders and an arm.. I cannot think of a single thing that would cause the clutch to slip apart from if the pushrod on the clutch lever was too long, sticking or had constant pressure on the arm..

Has anyone got any inspiration just in case the full solid clutch kit doesnt work?

Steve

Hi Guys

Thanks for the replies.. for some reason I didnt get notified of any responses and work has been crazy.

So the hydraulics were replaced with the last clutch.. so should have been fine...

The workshop have now replaced the clutch with a LOF heavy duty solid flywheel kit and it doesnt slip anymore.. as you would expect.

Funnily though the master cylinder carked it as they test drove it, so wouldnt be surprised if the hydraulics were a bit suspect... Either way a HD clutch will be good for the towing as that is its main role..

Noise wise.. definitely chatter on idle.. no mistaking it, however I tend to idle clutch in.. so not really an issue. The gearbox is not quiet anyway and at close to 300,000k on it.. its not surprising..

So replies

ian4002000
did the clutch hydraulics get replaced ? if you have problem in either cylinder with the rubbers they may not allow the throw out bearing to fully retract.

Undo the clutch line and see if there is any pressure in , and if this makes a difference to the slipping.

what did the old clutch and pressure plate look like ?

as above originally yes.. but as the mater returned to its position and had slack as well.. it was assumed ok.. as it turned out it was on its last legs but not sure this was the problem.

alien
Where the splines on the input shaft checked in case they have slight torque twist causing the clutch plate to stick?

No idea but good thought... I assume it was ok...

Slunnie
That judder, it reminds me from years ago when I was getting oil onto the clutch.

Clutch was Dry - yes hard to believe.. but it was.

discorevy
Not too hard to tune a td5 to the point it will overpower a standard clutch ( especially if running a 1.2 transfer case ), but other things to check include oil leak from the input shaft seal running up the input shaft and coating the friction plate with oil ( unlikely and the workshop would pick this up ).
If it had a LOF slave cylinder fitted , the old clutch may have been worn and you need the new clutch to bed in before fitting lof slave ( or use a spacer ) otherwise it'll slip.

AS above - dry on the clutch no contamination could be seen.. It had a TRW slave.. I suspect the new clutch needed bedding into the DMF, but am also aware of a few bad valeo flywheels. I beleive the faces actually had an angle on them (flat cone) So although it may have been ok.. with an upcoming trip I didnt want to risk it. Plus it was slipping worse than with the old clutch

POD
Not familiar with the vehicle specifically but...is there a step in the flywheel, i.e. between the face where the pressure plate bolts up, and the face where the friction plate sits? Is it possible that these were machined incorrectly when the clutch was originally replaced?
The idea that the motor is just too powerful for the clutch sounds a bit aspirational.

The clutch had been fine for a while (not long enough compared to the original) re the power.. Most people think that too.. but the TD5 had a LOT of headroom for tuning.. no idea what mine is running but its somewhere around the 140-170kw and pretty torquey too.. the hybrid turbo and larger intercooler plus the boost delimiter means it can see over 20lbs boost when being worked.. it pulls pretty well for an old engine.. bit of a stange vibration mid revs though.. probably the gearbox falling to pieces

Steve