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Thread: Fitting Hilux RCV CV's into Rover front

  1. #1
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    Fitting Hilux RCV CV's into Rover front

    I'm after some technical advice and measurements so i have an idea what to look for and consider for fitting Hilux/Toy 40 series CVs into the rover housing (Defender). In essence i'm looking to replicate what Keith offered which is no longer an option. I'll describe the plan and then pose questions.

    I plan to source/build a 30 spline rover locker. This can be achieved by broaching a blank side gear or convincing a locker supplier to build it to spec. Brand is yet to be decided but likely ARB on the suspicion that their Hilux locker and Rover locker will have interchangeable side gears (i'm looking into it). Yes i know Jack Mac made a hybrid in the past, but i need someone responsive to a 1 off project. I plan to use RCV 30 spline CVs for Hilux LN106/Toy 40 series with half shafts made to length in 30/30 spline. I will machine a custom bearing spindle to suit the larger 30 spline stub axle and oversized hub bearings. I have done this already for a 35 spline sals. I just need to merge the front bearing spindle shape with the bearing measurements from my 35 spline spindle. I already have hubs machined for the larger bearings (front and rear hubs are the same). Yes i could machine the bore of the LR bearing spindle but i'm not convinced it has enough material to provide the support for the bearing. With the larger hub bearings the OD of the bearing race is larger, thus more material to support the bearing. To cap it off i'll get a 30 spline drive flange made. The end product should be a 30 spline pegged locker, 30/30 spline 300m or HTE half shafts, 30 spline 300m CV, oversized bearing spindle and oversized bearings. Yes it is still has LR C&P and a CV no larger than the LR unit, however RCV warranties their CV up to 40" tyres and pegging will address most of the R&P shortcoming. It will be as strong as you can go in a rover housing, and will be sufficient for my needs.

    I have ordered a LR and Hilux bearing spindle for comparison and for the machining drawings. I will borrow a set of Toy 40 series axles/CV's to compare to the LR set. Some of these questions might be answered when i get the Toy and LR side by side, but as stated above, need guidance what to think about when taking measurements.

    Questions posed:

    1) Does anyone know what machining is required to the brass/bronze thrust washer. Does it need to be machined only for ID or thickness as well (to locate the bell in the swivel). If thickness, is there a spec;

    2) Is there a tolerance i should adopt for the interface between bronze washer and CV stub axle? This question is a loaded one. On some images the bronze washer is located inside a forged ring on the bearing spindle and others it sits outside. A search of FTC3154 which is relevant to mine, it appears to sit outside the forged ring.

    3) Likewise to the above, do i need to consider the chamfer on the washer to suit the Hilux CV bell. I assume the chamfer has no bearing on the support of the CV but i've been known to be wrong in the past (only once that i'll admit to).

    4) is there a part reference for a compatible seal and needle bearing that suits the diam Hilux CV and diam of the LR bearing spindle. Comparing an image of the hilux CV to a defender CV the hilux has a single machined surface while the LR has a wider machined surface (needle bearing) with a step down to a narrow machined surface (seal). I take from that the seal ID will not suit the hilux CV. Since it is custom machined part, technically I can machine to suit a seal rather than shove a square through a round hole. Is there an alternative seal i should consider in a custom seal face arrangement or is it as simple as searching the catalogue for something that suits?

    5) in the alternative to the above, the Hilux bearing spindle appears to only have the bronze washer and no roller bearing and inner seal. I assume the hilux set up is oil in the CV and hub bearings. I assume the groove in the washer is an oil feed. Assuming the swivel housing is coming off at some point, is it more convenient to machine the inner of the bearing spindle to suit the hilux thrust washer, machine a drain plug into the swivel and run oil in the swivel and bearings? The patent query: does the thrust washer on the LR bearing spindle (assuming its the outside version) also locate the spindle in the diff housing. the pics would suggest it does but with so many pics that purport to be the correct part # i'm not confident. Other issue is to get the flange face offset correct as between the LR and Hilux bearing spindle so the CV is located correct. I suspect this route will require a custom machined bronze washer to merge the hilux CV support and LR diff housing interface. Just not ideal to go too custom. I would machine spares in the first batch.

    6) i'm all ears to hear of a more convenient way to merge the LR bearing spindle design with the hilux CV.

    I'll leave it there for now. My head is hurting from over thinking it. I'd prefer if the topic remained focused on what i'm trying to achieve and not splinter off into why bolting a GU or 80 series diff is better. For those tempted by the irresistible urge to defy my request, i've considered and dismissed patrol and 80 series primarily because (i) i would have to live every day knowing i went to the dark side; and (ii) i have a very expensive brand new everything 35 spline dana 60 setup in the rear. If i wanted bomb proof i would go Dana 60 front with dana 60 steering and 8 lug hubs in 35 spline end to end. (i have a sals front housing and done the planning for the rest). I hope that the discussion is helpful to me and for others in the future.

    thanks in advance, MLD
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  2. #2
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    Years ago I was chatting to Daniel Bonegard, ARB Engineer of AirLockers and compressors. An extremely nice fellow.

    He was saying as a part of the correspondance

    So if you get the RD132 - 30 spline Toyota diff for LC80/100 high pinion frt and get a set of Rover 24 spline gears (728H141) then you can swap the gears straight in and run your Rover shafts.
    If I'm understanding that you want to do a Rover ARB with Toy 30spline side gears, then that series of ARB lockers will interchange the side gears. When they redeveloped, it was also for common parts.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #3
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    Interesting ideas. I'm following this, keep the updates / info as part of your research coming.

    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    Yes i could machine the bore of the LR bearing spindle but i'm not convinced it has enough material to provide the support for the bearing.
    I've got a FUBAR'd front stub axle / spindle FTC3154 that I could bandsaw in half, if this helps you / anyone know for certain? Pretty sure the bronze washer is still on it, which could be measured if you needed dimensions etc. Can't help with the CV side of it- mine are still ok- it's just the two diffs I killed!

    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    I'd prefer if the topic remained focused on what i'm trying to achieve and not splinter off into why bolting a GU or 80 series diff is better.
    I was reading this think that exact line the whole way through! At current machining rates, and custom lockers, I think you'd be looking at some pretty solid diffs from other places!
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  4. #4
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    Having done this conversion before, with hilux cv's, jacmac axles and flanges etc..i sourced all the info from this site from memory, hmmm or was it Outerlimits.

    Small bore of the spindles, and machine of the brass bush, was quite a simple conversion

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Having done this conversion before, with hilux cv's, jacmac axles and flanges etc..i sourced all the info from this site from memory, hmmm or was it Outerlimits.

    Small bore of the spindles, and machine of the brass bush, was quite a simple conversion
    I'm pretty sure it was on Outerlimits. I think Ruff (Tony Robinson) is still on FB HMLR who did all of this on the Lockless IIRC. I had a ride in Lockless, holy crap that setup can cop an absolute beating!!!!
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger View Post
    Interesting ideas. I'm following this, keep the updates / info as part of your research coming.


    I've got a FUBAR'd front stub axle / spindle FTC3154 that I could bandsaw in half, if this helps you / anyone know for certain? Pretty sure the bronze washer is still on it, which could be measured if you needed dimensions etc. Can't help with the CV side of it- mine are still ok- it's just the two diffs I killed!


    I was reading this think that exact line the whole way through! At current machining rates, and custom lockers, I think you'd be looking at some pretty solid diffs from other places!
    Thank Mitch, no need to destroy a stub axle (as much as you want an excuse the get the saw out). Based on measurements on the weekend comparing the CV of a Toyota 40 series (late) to the LR, the needle bearing race on the toy is 33.5mm while the needle bearing race on the LR CV is 40mm. Suggests that bronze washer and needle bearing on the LR stub axle will be too large to suit the Toy bearing race on the CV. I need to work out what Keith did to overcome that (assuming i'm on the right track). Toyota for the 80 series moved to a bronze washer and needle bearing arrangement (Toy 40 was just a bronze washer). It might be convenient to use the 80 series arrangement if, on the assumption, the bearing race on the 80 series CV is the same as the 40 series/hilux CV. I've reached out to a mate with an 80 series for a CV. I'll kick the can down the road some more.

    As for the hassle and cost, when you add it all up the 30 spline conversion is cheaper than a diff conversion. Source a pair of diffs from a GU or 80 series. Fabrication for the conversion at both ends. Engineering so you are compliant. Even after all that, you still have stock axles that are not as strong as the 30 spline chromoly set up in a Rover housing. Whether a Hilux 300m RCV CV is stronger than a stock GU CV, i don't know.

    If ARB uses interchangeable parts, the extra $ will be nominal. ARB sold be a 35 spline Dana 60 locker for $1160. I'd expect a similar price for a Rover 30 spline locker. I paid $250 each for custom 35 spline bearing spindle in 4130. I'd expect a machine shop charge at least $100 each to bore the spindle. A 1 off job for a non repeat customer comes at a premium. A custom bearing spindle is $150 more than a stock unit that is bored and i get to merge the LR and Toyota design without compromise. I paid $150 each to machine the hub (i have 3 machined hubs on the shelf already thus a sunk cost). Bearings/seals are $50 a corner. Axles and drive flange will be more expensive than chromo stock units. Can't avoid that. The though of it appears harder and more costly than reality.

    Rough measurements of the 40 series CV

    Toyota 40 series CV - LR in (?)

    Bell depth 60.2 to edge of bell. (55.6-55.8)
    Bell depth 62.8 to edge of inner cage (61)
    Bell diam 90.5 (93)
    Bell shoulder to stub axle 10.6 (13)
    Bearing race diam 33.5 (40)
    Bearing race length 25 (19/20 due to chamfer)
    LR seal race diam 31.9,
    LR seal width 12
    Stub shaft diam 31.6 (30)
    Bell shoulder to start of splines 145.2 (120.6)
    Spline length 32 (33.8)
    Circlip width 2.8 (2.4)
    Circlip offset from end of shaft 4.5 (4.5)
    Circlip OD 30.6 (29.25)

    Toy 40 CV total length 243.85mm (LR 210). 33.85mm longer overall. Toy 40 CV from bell shoulder to end of stub shaft approx 26.5 longer than LR.

    >/=1994 LR CV schematic (attached)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  7. #7
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    I don't ever remember a needle roller bearing being used with mine, i do however remember a brass bush, which i am pretty sure was a toyota one machined down to fit a rover spindle.

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