lpg forklift doesn't want to run.

LPG systems can have debris and junk in them , you my have a restriction at a valve or solenoid that is only allowing a small amount of gas.

The convertors normally have two stages and if one of these is not working correctly it may be letting too much gas pressure though which the engine can use when cold but not when hot.

To unbog the forklift you may have to jack it up and put wood etc underneath the wheels , the easy way is find a bigger machine to drag it . most large tractors will move it easily . If you have any helpers you may be able to hook up a landy or two and you tractor .

Ian
Bittern

Clark C500
Puncture proof tyres
Wakusha. Motor.
Century G85 gas convertor.

Wrong set up for what you want to do..........don't waste your time...use something else
No good pulling or pushing unit.......high ground pressure.
Need to use forklift jack to lift unit so a firm surface can be placed under it to run on.

Covertor most likely needs repair kit and or coolant heater hoses checked and coolant flow though convertor.
Most people are to lousey to add anti rust coolant to a fork lift.
Also people tend to.remove thermostats to try and solve cooling system problems which also causes gas convertor freezing problems.
10 year old filters tell the rest of the story.
That model clark forklift is very old now and not one of there best designs
Don't waste your time........especially with a forklift with puncture proof tyres for use on grass.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Clark C500
Puncture proof tyres
Wakusha. Motor.
Century G85 gas convertor.

Wrong set up for what you want to do..........don't waste your time...use something else
No good pulling or pushing unit.......high ground pressure.
Need to use forklift jack to lift unit so a firm surface can be placed under it to run on.

Covertor most likely needs repair kit and or coolant heater hoses checked and coolant flow though convertor.
Most people are to lousey to add anti rust coolant to a fork lift.
Also people tend to.remove thermostats to try and solve cooling system problems which also causes gas convertor freezing problems.
10 year old filters tell the rest of the story.
That model clark forklift is very old now and not one of there best designs
Don't waste your time........especially with a forklift with puncture proof tyres for use on grass.

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Oh, its not mine ... my brother is storing it here. He uses it in a big industrial shed. Its a nice little unit that is now working well. It is just not designed to be used on anything other than a workshop floor. If he needs to move it .... it'll just need to wait until summer so the ground can support it. Its simpler than that even .... the points were just burnt and closed. Though it still had good spark if you checked by pulling a plug wire after it had died (strange right ?).

Thanks for the details. At least he can describe exactly what the motor and converter is now if he needs parts!

You'd need to check your lift/push ratings, but a variation on this might work:
A few decades back I (or was it the other Ranger?)(it was a long time ago!!) was driving a tractor (with a fairly crude, lightweight front bucket) in some back country when both front wheels dropped into a rabbit warren. By 'dropped' I mean, front wheels past the axles, engine/gearbox stopped it falling further. Must have been a series of large cavities in dry soil.
There was no way a 1-tonne 4WD or a winch was going to pull it out.
All I did was lower the bucket to the maximum extent possible - raising the wheels out of the cavity - and reverse with the bucket as a slide. Out in moments. The other, inexperienced Ranger, most impressed.

My thought is, the actual forks, while designed for lifting 'up' at front, might be used for pushing down on some hard surface, big old planks or something - and if you can't lift both wheels (you MUST check the rating, see if this is a Bad Idea for a forklift!!) maybe you could tilt/lift one side, till something super-solid can go under the driving wheels (and the steering wheels as well, if possible) - it would then be a business of walking it out over one plank or expanded mesh length at a time.

Emphasising again: it worked for a tractor with a slightly clumsy, after-market bucket/front-end-loader, (and it's the back end of tractors that's heavy, not the front, even with a bucket) - but it might be a method of moving the forklift to parking on a reinforced concrete slab.
Note also: I have seen parked vehicles on thin, hot bitumen leave both dents and crime-scene casts of where they were parked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phideaux

You'd need to check your lift/push ratings, but a variation on this might work:
A few decades back I (or was it the other Ranger?)(it was a long time ago!!) was driving a tractor (with a fairly crude, lightweight front bucket) in some back country when both front wheels dropped into a rabbit warren. By 'dropped' I mean, front wheels past the axles, engine/gearbox stopped it falling further. Must have been a series of large cavities in dry soil.
There was no way a 1-tonne 4WD or a winch was going to pull it out.
All I did was lower the bucket to the maximum extent possible - raising the wheels out of the cavity - and reverse with the bucket as a slide. Out in moments. The other, inexperienced Ranger, most impressed.

My thought is, the actual forks, while designed for lifting 'up' at front, might be used for pushing down on some hard surface, big old planks or something - and if you can't lift both wheels (you MUST check the rating, see if this is a Bad Idea for a forklift!!) maybe you could tilt/lift one side, till something super-solid can go under the driving wheels (and the steering wheels as well, if possible) - it would then be a business of walking it out over one plank or expanded mesh length at a time.

Emphasising again: it worked for a tractor with a slightly clumsy, after-market bucket/front-end-loader, (and it's the back end of tractors that's heavy, not the front, even with a bucket) - but it might be a method of moving the forklift to parking on a reinforced concrete slab.
Note also: I have seen parked vehicles on thin, hot bitumen leave both dents and crime-scene casts of where they were parked.

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All fork llfts I've diven, all different brands and none had down ward force. When the tines are on the ground and down lever was activated the chains went slack.

How ever I have seen an old Conveyor fork lift with a carpet roll prong attached try to lift an overloaded attempt and the back wheels lift high off the ground and then had a couple of Darwinians hang off the back ro add extra counter balance. No doubt Worksafe would roll their eyes.

That's what happens with points ignition when the rubbing block wears. When the engine is cold, it will start because there is a small gap between the points. When it warms up, the gap reduces to the stage where it is not enough to "break" the flow of electricity, and the engine stops. Needs a new set of points, and ensure you put a little dab of high temperature grease on the rubbing block. As it has been sitting a while, remove the rotor button and put some light oil/transmission fluid in the tube it sits on, to lubricate the advance mechanism.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

All fork llfts I've diven, all different brands and none had down ward force. When the tines are on the ground and down lever was activated the chains went slack.

How ever I have seen an old Conveyor fork lift with a carpet roll prong attached try to lift an overloaded attempt and the back wheels lift high off the ground and then had a couple of Darwinians hang off the back ro add extra counter balance. No doubt Worksafe would roll their eyes.

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** Ah. I've never driven or used a forklift beyond moving one A>B. My ignorance is showing. Thanks for the reality check.

Apart from a high-lift jack (with their hook right at the base) or maybe three of high-lift jacks! - I'm out of suggestions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phideaux

** Ah. I've never driven or used a forklift beyond moving one A>B. My ignorance is showing. Thanks for the reality check.

Apart from a high-lift jack (with their hook right at the base) or maybe three of high-lift jacks! - I'm out of suggestions.

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When we had our fork lifts serviced they used a jack with a hook that slide under the rear edge, fork lifts are generally low to the ground at the rear, so you would need that sort of jack and a ground or a large base plate so that the jack doesn't sink when lifting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

When we had our fork lifts serviced they used a jack with a hook that slide under the rear edge, fork lifts are generally low to the ground at the rear, so you would need that sort of jack and a ground or a large base plate so that the jack doesn't sink when lifting.

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It will need to wait until summer now .... its sitting lower each day. Its probably now resting on its chassis. If I look it hasn't pushed through the drive, its depressed it. the gravel is still under and around the tires. I did just lookup forklift jack, and I see what you mean :) ... .This one cant be jacked where it it. When the ground is hard, I'll need to dig some ramps for each wheel so it'll roll and drag it out with the tractor.

Tilt full back, tynes raised, pack timber blocks under the froward edge on the mast channel, tilt forward and drive wheels will raise (a bit). Pack under them, tilt back and repeat as necessary. Not sure anything bogs as easy as a forklift.

Usually a gas filter at the shutoff solenoid. Sometimes they are rigged with an oil pressure switch, so low oil pressure (engine stall) will shut the gas off..very worn engines will sometimes drop enough oil pressure when warm for this to happen. Manifold vac switches are to cut the gas are also used sometimes. Sometimes they are just wired to ignition, but really should not be.