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Thread: lpg forklift doesn't want to run.

  1. #1
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    lpg forklift doesn't want to run.

    My brother movede his forklift down here a few months back. I tried to move it off the drive at the time .... and you can all guess what happened



    anyway, I'm in the process of throwing up a leanto ... and have come to the realisation, using a forklift to lift purlins up high would make life very easy.






    The damn thing was still beside the drive where I tried to move it off.... only now the back wheels had sunk down. I dug a nice little ramp for them to roll it up. Its not very bogged at all.... But I'll be damned if I can pull it out. The forklifts back wheel just keel over onto full lock and wedges itself into the ground. The problem is the forklift, every since my brother has owned it (and obviously for hte last few owners) just will not run for longer than 5minutes. Then it won't run again until its competelly cooled. I'm obviously going to have to fix this in order to "unbog it" ... because if the motor wont' stay running, the back wheels have a mind of there own.

    This sounds really simple. Its going to be the converter icing up .... I was surprised to find the converter is warm to the touch, the thermostat has *just* opened, and everything seems to be working fine. I tried cracking the gas line to the converter, and yes we have gas there. The motor has spark. If I go out there and try now, it'll probbably run for a minute or so as its taken me 15minutes to write this post.

    Does anyone have any ideas? The thing start, runs and works perfectly when cold for about 5minutes. I'm guessing its been doing this for at least 10year (the oil filters are marked as changed ten years ago, but the sump is full of moisture .... no doubt because the forklift has NEVER been warm enough to boil off condensation in the last 10years).

    If there a filter in these converters I could clean maybe ? It can't be icing given the converter itself is warm to the touch.



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    In an old D series Ford 300 petrol motor on gas I had, I used to pull the the gas converter apart and clean the honeycone goop from the diaphragm and gauze filter then it would be happy for a while. Just my experience, also coolant had to full.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobMichelle View Post
    In an old D series Ford 300 petrol motor on gas I had, I used to pull the the gas converter apart and clean the honeycone goop from the diaphragm and gauze filter then it would be happy for a while. Just my experience, also coolant had to full.
    Yeah, the local place has told him it needs a new converter. But I like to rule stuff out first, and that doesn't make sense to me..... I thought about ringing my uncle or grandfather .... But I know what my grandfather would say "check the basics, first .... always the basics .... before you get technical and start pulling things to bits .... have you checked the basics?".....

    so i whipped the top of the dizzie off, found burnt closed up points .... I can't understand how in the hell it was running at all. So I cleaned the points and gapped them... cleaned up the rotor button and cap as well as I could with a screwdriver ..... and she burst straight to life........ Yep, just like my grandfather says "basics first .... you have to check the basics first". Which is very strange, 'cos the damn thing ran fine when it was cold. It must have just completely closed the points as it warmed ( and it DID have spark when I pull the coil lead and checked .... bizarre or what).

    thanks again
    Shane.
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    Awesome and easy fix gotta love the old days lol

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    forklifts must be the most hopeless invention ever made. I finally managed to get it back onto the drive. I've just noticed it is now bogged on the drive one back wheel being slightlly off the edge of the drive ... so it is now uselessly bogged. It has quite large drive wheels, so its amazingly how useless it really is. So much for the idea of being able to use it beside the shed. Its really soft there, yet the thing can't even move itself on a drive that fully loaded dump trucks don't even mark
    Proper cars--
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  6. #6
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    forklifts must be the most hopeless invention ever made. I finally managed to get it back onto the drive. I've just noticed it is now bogged on the drive one back wheel being slightlly off the edge of the drive ... so it is now uselessly bogged. It has quite large drive wheels, so its amazingly how useless it really is. So much for the idea of being able to use it beside the shed. Its really soft there, yet the thing can't even move itself on a drive that fully loaded dump trucks don't even mark
    They're not deigned to drive on anything except firm surfaces. like loading bays, inside factories and have solid tyres for that purpose. There are 4x4 forklifts though.


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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    forklifts must be the most hopeless invention ever made. I finally managed to get it back onto the drive. I've just noticed it is now bogged on the drive one back wheel being slightlly off the edge of the drive ... so it is now uselessly bogged. It has quite large drive wheels, so its amazingly how useless it really is. So much for the idea of being able to use it beside the shed. Its really soft there, yet the thing can't even move itself on a drive that fully loaded dump trucks don't even mark
    They are not offroad vehicles especially that little 1.5T job you've got.
    For that work you'd want a set of tynes on that tractor or a monitou type machine.

    I got a 2.5T fork bogged on a field day site once. Snatch strap and a fully loaded Holden Colorado couldn't even move it. Took a large tractor to get it out eventually.
    The front drive wheels are esentially locked- no suspension on them- just a solid mounted 15" diff and solid non-compliant tyres.
    The steer wheels are usually hydro steer, and the only suspension they have is a middle pivot point common for the two wheels on a beam axle which move up and down with small travel, on the same plane. This is how the 'triangle of stability' is considered for forklift stability when carrying loads.
    Forklifts are are bloody stout little units- deceivingly heavy. a 2.5T fork (standard size) can be easily north of 4.5T kerb weight. Since the front wheels are the fulcrum of the lifting lever, if you want to lift 2.5T on the forks at the 600mm load centre, then you need 2.5T of weight behind those front drive wheels just to stop the thing tipping forward- never mind things like momentum for emergency braking etc. Most of this weight is in the counterbalance which is right above the two small steer wheels. So there is an incredible amount of weight with a small contact patch on those two 12" tyres at the rear. Plus when you steer to get un-stuck, you just digs in more. It's diminishing returns by that point- you get a little stuck, then proper stuck.

    TL;DR stuff gets interesting quick when you have a fork and soft ground. Don't ask me how I know...
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger View Post
    They are not offroad vehicles especially that little 1.5T job you've got.
    For that work you'd want a set of tynes on that tractor or a monitou type machine.

    I got a 2.5T fork bogged on a field day site once. Snatch strap and a fully loaded Holden Colorado couldn't even move it. Took a large tractor to get it out eventually.
    The front drive wheels are esentially locked- no suspension on them- just a solid mounted 15" diff and solid non-compliant tyres.
    The steer wheels are usually hydro steer, and the only suspension they have is a middle pivot point common for the two wheels on a beam axle which move up and down with small travel, on the same plane. This is how the 'triangle of stability' is considered for forklift stability when carrying loads.
    Forklifts are are bloody stout little units- deceivingly heavy. a 2.5T fork (standard size) can be easily north of 4.5T kerb weight. Since the front wheels are the fulcrum of the lifting lever, if you want to lift 2.5T on the forks at the 600mm load centre, then you need 2.5T of weight behind those front drive wheels just to stop the thing tipping forward- never mind things like momentum for emergency braking etc. Most of this weight is in the counterbalance which is right above the two small steer wheels. So there is an incredible amount of weight with a small contact patch on those two 12" tyres at the rear. Plus when you steer to get un-stuck, you just digs in more. It's diminishing returns by that point- you get a little stuck, then proper stuck.

    TL;DR stuff gets interesting quick when you have a fork and soft ground. Don't ask me how I know...
    I think its 2.5ton ... maybe 2.75 ... it looks like a dinky little childs toy.



    Its not very bogged, but it can't be moved. i tried to drag it onto some ramps so it wouldn't sink any further .... But there is just no way.



    its one sweet little forklift. It'll need to wait until the middle of summer before he can moved from here. this is what trying to move it with a 2ton tractor with the diff lock in managed. I guess he doesn't need to worry about anyone stealing it .... or it getting crashed into by poeple parking cars ( nothing is going to hurt that thing.... I can't think of anything short of a tank that would be more indestructable).
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  9. #9
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    Could you lift the counterbalance using the 3PL on the tractor somehow, then drive the FLT forward? It would probably go a long way to getting it unstuck. I've never had one off, but apparently it's a few very large bolts that hold it on, and it sits on pins at the other mounting point.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger View Post
    Could you lift the counterbalance using the 3PL on the tractor somehow, then drive the FLT forward? It would probably go a long way to getting it unstuck. I've never had one off, but apparently it's a few very large bolts that hold it on, and it sits on pins at the other mounting point.
    I just checked the plate on the fork. It can lift 2.7 ton ..... so I imagine that counterbalance is going to be at least 2.5tons. The linkage on the tractor is rated at about 1ton from memory. That is an excellent idea though!
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

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