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Thread: D1 stripped tensioner pulley housing

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    D1 stripped tensioner pulley housing

    Seems I have stripped the aluminium housing where the bolt for the tensioner goes - car is 300tdi 98 D1.
    What is the best fix for this? A quick google suggest a helicoil? Never used them before.



    tensioner.jpg

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    Homestar's Avatar
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    D1 stripped tensioner pulley housing

    Helicoils are pretty simple to use - find the set that’s the right size for the bolt that goes in there. The set comes with the correct sized drill to drill the hole over size and the correct tap to retap the hole to suit the helicoil.

    Looks like a blind hole so be careful tapping it and you might need to find a bottom tap in the correct size to ensure the hole is tapped deep enough.

    Once drilled and tapped to the new size, the helicoil simply screws in using the supplies tool. Once it’s all the way in, the tang on the bottom that’s used to screw it in is broken off - set usually comes with a punch to do this - and you’re all done.

    There’s bound to be a good video on youtube explaining the process.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Yep, here’s one -

    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Helicoils are pretty simple to use - find the set that’s the right size for the bolt that goes in there. The set comes with the correct sized drill to drill the hole over size and the correct tap to retap the hole to suit the helicoil.

    Looks like a blind hole so be careful tapping it and you might need to find a bottom tap in the correct size to ensure the hole is tapped deep enough.

    Once drilled and tapped to the new size, the helicoil simply screws in using the supplies tool. Once it’s all the way in, the tang on the bottom that’s used to screw it in is broken off - set usually comes with a punch to do this - and you’re all done.

    There’s bound to be a good video on youtube explaining the process.
    What is the trick to ensure the helicoil kit matches the thread and bolt size.?

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    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    What is the trick to ensure the helicoil kit matches the thread and bolt size.?
    You get a kit to suit the thread you're repairing.
    The taps are very specific, as they suit the thread pitch your using but are bigger to allow for the insert.
    I'm not sure how it will go in a blind hole, as the tap will not be a bottoming tap, you also need to break off the tab on the insert once it's installed, you normally do that by punching it down the hole.

    Have a talk to an engineering place or supplier,.

    All the best with it.

    Tony

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    Blind holes do require a bottoming tap the same as the tap supplied in the kit which does make it a bit trickier but ask an Engineering supplies for a bottoming tap the same as the helicoil kit tap.

    As for the the kit to get - as mentioned it’s the thread size of the bolt that goes in the hole - take it with you to an Engineering supplies if you’re unsure - they’ll be able to measure and advise what it is and what kit you need.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Edddo,

    Here are a couple of photos.
    Recoil is the brand of this one, there's a couple.
    The second one shows the kit, tap, inserts and installation tool.
    Third and fourth is the insert, its a square section SS wire wound into a spring.
    It sits on the tool with the tab leading and is wound into the newly tapped hole, once in you hit down on the tab and it snaps off.

    Tony

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    Hey Eddo. I replied in the 'what happened' thread about this.

    Firstly make sure your 'bolt' is not a stud and but.
    Stud can be replaced.

    I would consider using a strong thread locking compound if you can get some tightness on the stud(say 25 or so Nm on it).
    The nut(that secures the tensioner) should be a nylock type too.

    I found some torque specs for the stud and nut.
    Stud only needs 14Nm of torque and the nut for the tensioner should be done to 45Nm.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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