To fit a jack under the axle when the tyre is flat is a very simple matter. Put the spare tyre in front of the flat tyre, and drive up onto the spare, jack up & remove the flat tyre and replace with the spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
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To fit a jack under the axle when the tyre is flat is a very simple matter. Put the spare tyre in front of the flat tyre, and drive up onto the spare, jack up & remove the flat tyre and replace with the spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
Yes very good and very clever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm
But I shouldn't have to do that.
If the original LR bottle jack still worked I wouldn't have to do that...excellent design flawed in execution...it was designed for the specific purpose a three stage jack designed to fit under the axle...pity the seals failed.
Agree - don't work under any car only supported on a jack.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
As far as I'm aware the correct procedure is to, engage the centre diff, apply the handbrake and chock the wheels. with the diff locked and wheels chocked everything should be OK (at least on a road or relatively flat track).Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
Martyn
(who has had a rangie fall off the jack :mad:)
I haven't actually tried this, but I thought with the handbrake applied, the tailshaft won't turn. With one wheel in the air an the other 3 are on the ground, the wheel in the air is free to turn due to the open diff, but the car will not move.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
Doesn't the diff lock work off vacuum, so the engine has to be running. I'm not gonna change a tyre with the engine running!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushie
AI agree with everything else.
In the Disco and Fender the Diff Lock is engaged mechanically with the little stick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralf_the_RR
Standard procedure for jacking in the driver's manual recommends it's engagement along with the others as mentioned by Bushie..
They will move of the jack easily if you don't:eek:
Well there you go. What a great idea - a diff lock that is purely mechanical.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
For us Rangie owners - we miss out.
Vacuum is needed to engage the diff lock, but once it is engaged it stays that way until the knob is pushed in and there is vacuum available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralf_the_RR
It is good practice to chock at least one wheel when changing a wheel in any vehicle - best one to chock is usually the diagonally opposite one as it has most weight on it if the ground is flat. If the ground is not flat, the choice is less obvious, but try to make it the wheel carrying most weight.
John
Dear HombreQuote:
Originally Posted by Hombre
I usually use a glass then I don't need to jack up my bottle! ;) Oops wrong subject.
The jack you need is the screw type that came with the 1971 - 1984 Rangie, the seals in the hydraulic ones from the later Rangies start leaking and are not replaceable. I recently had the same problem, and had an El-Cheapo hydraulic one but as you say only had a 20C piect top and single lift, not enough for the Rangie suspension.
The result is that I watched eBay for Range Rover and Jack then bought one with the handle for $25 + postage. A bargain.
Cheers
Diana
Hi Lotz-a-Landies,
Thanks for that advise... I'll be keeping an eye out on eBay.
JDNSW says:
" It is good practice to chock at least one wheel when changing a wheel in any vehicle."
Can I ask, does chock mean to block the wheel and if so, how would you block the wheel ?
A brick (or similar) front and back of the chosen wheel would do the job. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hombre