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Thread: Steering geometry on D2

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Steering geometry on D2

    My steering for my D2 has been poorly set by a well known LR service centre. There was only one issue that I was concerned about..now there are two

    The steering wheel was not centred when driving down a straight piece of road. After adjustment it is now worse. The wheel has to held to the right to get it to drive straight. It is consistent even with taking into account the camber of the road.

    The front left tyre is now scuffing badly on the outside. Before it went in it wasn't too bad. It is now significantly worse.

    I need to have some guidence in how to set up the steering drag links. There are only 2 of these which according to the Rave CD can only adjust the centre of steering wheel and toe in, toe out.

    My question is..to remove the always to the right steering wheel would you make the drag link longer or shorter?

    To eliminate the scuffing on the outside of the tyre would you make the other drag link longer or shorter?

    Can any steering guru's can point me to the right direction?
    Last edited by feral; 22nd July 2006 at 03:48 PM.

  2. #2
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    Steering

    In the field, set the track rod to zero toe in - ie equal distance measured front and rear of tyre to tyre. That should make it steer straight. Then when you have that, see whether or not the steering wheel has come back to center. If it bothers you, then try doing the front (Drag) link only 1 revolution at a time - it won't take much to center the steering wheel. As to scuffing of the left wheel - that may be various things: A decent tyre dealer will have a better idea if you want to invest in an electonic alignment

  3. #3
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    2 issues here.

    1. steering geometry is out, and that should be fixed first.

    2. I don't have a D2, but it should have a removable steering wheel that can be set in place once everything else is lined up.

    The latter may be an easy fix, but the former should be attended to first. I'm not sure what those Nazis did to the Land Rover when they briefly owned it, but from everything I hear, they certainly made servicing a lot more difficult

    Thank goodness the Yanks have liberated the marque

    or maybe not....

  4. #4
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    sounds like they have adjusted the drag link, (one in front of the diff) why? because you said only one tyre is scuffing.
    there is a measurement(should be) in the rave cd that gives you the length of the drag link and the track rod (one behind the diff)

    check the drag link first, if its close, with in 5mm, leave it and concerntrate on the track rod. its what gives you toe in and out.

    once you have it close run a string line around all 4 tyres, you should notice the string line is parrell with the back tyres and the fronts should have a gap at the back of the tyre and be touching at the front.

    also, IF you steering wheel HASENT been removed, when you get the adjustments close the steering wheel will be back to center.


    phil.

  5. #5
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    Hi Feral
    As mentioned,get a proper electronic wheel alignment done.
    To remove the steering wheel and re-centralise that is a stealer job.Last alignment I did with new tyres left the wheel slightly off centre.The tyre shop wouldnt remove and re-centralise due to the airbags.
    Goodluck
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy
    .......As mentioned,get a proper electronic wheel alignment done.

    That's what I wanted the first time

    I booked it in for a wheel alignment and an engine diagnosis check with Test Book as part of the 100,000 k's service. I paid $250 to get a bodge alignment and removal of codes. The centre of wheel issue was noticable but now it annoys me Nah....I'm P****d off.

    I think I will be able to do the centre of wheel issue but the reality is to leave the scuffing issue to the experts.

    I am due for new tyres later this year so I will leave it till then. Just trying to drag some more k's out of the tyres.

    Cheers,
    Lyndon.

  7. #7
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    Feral worked on these things for years wish I was there to help its easy to do even without the new digital gear ect tape measure, 2 spanners, someone to help, piece of chalk and jobs done, don't need to remove s/wheel adjust the rod, never failed yet and you can do the lot in 30mins. if you'd like to try it PM me and I'll steer, sorry no pun, you in the right direction.
    regards

  8. #8
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    Hi Lyndon
    Another point that will help with your next set of tyres.The guy who did mine told me to ROTATE THE WHEELS @5000K intervals.He said all the damage is done in the first 10000K re edge wearing,once it starts you wont stop it,no mater how perfect the wheel alignment.I must admit Ive gone over that by a couple of thou but will be doing it when I do the suspension.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  9. #9
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    Yes, good point about the rotation. These LR experts decided that they would not rotate because the fronts had less tread than the rears. The question remains does a D2 wear which set first? But getting back to the issue...I haven't been rotating much at all. I service every 10,000 k's so I have been checking brakes and suspension but not rotating wheels. If I was going to rotate it would happen at every 10.

    With the s/wheel the Rave CD states that you can relocate if it is more than 5 degrees out. I don't think it is that far out so I will stick with adjusting the front drag link and take it from there.

    I might even set up the string lines and take some measurements. Reminds me of the good old days with the race car...one weekend racing, three weekends working on the b...thing

    Cheers.

  10. #10
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    Maybe try ARB Southern down in Dandenong. They have some good gear and seem to know how to do the shimming etc correctly.

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