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Thread: 300tdi injection pump timing pin question

  1. #1
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    300tdi injection pump timing pin question

    Hi all.

    Looking for some advice removing the injection pump on my 300tdi Defender to have it rebuilt.

    I’ve locked the flywheel notch at No.1 TDC, removed the injector lines and pump cover. Tried to insert the lock pin in the injector pulley but the pulley hole was slightly clockwise (advanced?). Slackened the 10mm bolts at the retaining plate and turned the pump pulley shaft back a touch using the 22mm pulley nut as per workshop manual and this video: Bosch VE Pump timing check with cover plate on - Land Rover 200tdi and 300tdi diesel engines - YouTube

    This moved things but the hole was then too far anticlockwise and when I try to turn it back clockwise again to correct things I feel resistance as though I’m pushing against the timing belt or the pump spring. I can easily get the hole to line up in this range but when I release the pulley nut the hole turns back out of alignment. If the pin is in it pushes back against the pin so it can’t be removed easily.

    This resistance doesn’t seem to be there in the linked video; wherever he stops turning the 22mm nut is where everything stays.

    Am I doing something wrong here? I don’t want to screw things up by pushing it too hard and skipping a tooth or something and then have to pull the timing cover off.

    I had the idea of holding everything in place, nipping up the 10mm bolts, removing the lock pins and turning the engine 360 degrees back to where it was to see if this removes the tension maybe?

    Any words of wisdom here much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    You will feel some tension as you move the pump shaft /nut with the lock plate/sprocket loose, pump plunger will ramp up the cam plate a bit under spring pressure.
    If your removing the pump, you will also be removing the cam belt, so prob a good idea to replace as well
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    You will feel some tension as you move the pump shaft /nut with the lock plate/sprocket loose, pump plunger will ramp up the cam plate a bit under spring pressure.
    If your removing the pump, you will also be removing the cam belt, so prob a good idea to replace as well
    Cheers.

    I spoke to the injection specialist who will be rebuilding it. He said something to that effect as well and advised the following:

    Don't use the LRT-12-045 pin in this case, use the drill bit method (I think it's 9.5mm?) instead.

    The pump will want to push back on the pin so you don't want to take it out to fit the LRT-12-045 retaining plate since you won't be able to reach the pulley nut then to turn it into line and replace the pin. Problem is the LR style pin has a head on it which prevents it passing completely through the plate so you have to take it out to fit the plate.

    To avoid this conundrum, bring it into line at No.1 TDC and drop the drill bit in. Leave the drill bit in place and pass the pulley retaining plate over the bit to fit it. Remove the pump with the bit still in place and deliver to your local injection guru for the rebuild.

    The pump can then be returned to you with the bit in place, similarly reinstalled and off you go.

    I'm hopeful I won't have to remove the timing cover and the belt can be a separate job.

  4. #4
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    Won’t the cam pulley fall?
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    Won’t the cam pulley fall?
    The LRT-12-045 retaining plate clamps the pump pulley in place so you just leave that installed while you work on the pump.

    LRT-12-045.jpg 072.jpg 073.jpg

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