Thread: 2" lift on defender wagon

Don't know. The previous owner did mine with new shocks and springs.

I'd be interested in this too

Yes you do! Or you'll spend your life topping out shocks everywhere till one eventually breaks.

And it will happen even on suburban roads.

Tombraider

Thanks for the advice, can't rely on the local supension mob as they will try to sell me anything.
Harro.

I'd say not necessarily. A lot of people just leave std shocks in, without problems. In this case the suspension just moves through exactly the same cycle. Imagine nudging up to a rock step - the suspension works just the same, its just your starting ppoint, the bullbar on the rock, is a bit higher.

Cheap but not ideal. The shocks are not operating around their mid point, which is obviously what they were designed for.

And check the springs on full compression. You don't want the new springs bottoming out, getting coil bound.

So, what to do. Longer shocks will sit closer to the mid point, you've got your 2" lift already, and now have an inch or two maybe extra down travel with longer shocks. This is where you break them as Mike is suggesting. They will top out, unless you go the next round of modifications...

Regards
Max P

FWIW, an unladen 130 is pretty much in this situation (virtually nil droop at rest) and the dampers do top out when cornering on the road and limits body roll. Definately not ideal as Tombraider and Tusker say, and I'm damned if I know how more OE shocks on these things don't break, although most 130's are usually loaded, and Landy OE dampers have a much larger top eye and bush than any aftermearket damper.

With a 2" lift, your shocks will be almost at full extension resulting in no droop.
So unless you're off-roading with a heavy load, you will lift wheels all the time and stress the shock by topping out.

Its not as simple as simply fitting a longer shock as they are longer in compressed form as well and will bottom out unless you install an raised top mount or extend your bump stops (less than ideal as you lose up travel).

Generally, a standard height 110 with soft springs will outperform a lifted 110 unless it has longer shocks. Even then the standard one may well be better as aftermarket lift springs are often a heavier rate and will decrease wheel travel by reducing compression travel. So you may well find you lose both up travel and down travel with a raised spring, depending on the new spring rate and your shock lengths.

I would be trying to optimise your spring rate (and shock length) before looking for lift. If the bump stops on the wheels in compression arent touching when you cross axle it, the spring rate is too heavy for optimum articulation. Obviously if carrying heavy loads is your priority, this test is not relevant.

longer shocks can easily be fitted at the rear without any problem. On the front most 10" travel shocks need the towers lifted by about 1", although I think N73 OME dampers may fit OK without any issues, but I'd double check that one.

Actually, here's some numbers. Koni Raid for 50-mm lift in the rear is 391mm compressed (607mm open). OE rear damper ('98 Tdi) is 328mm closed, 550 open (measured from centre of eye to base of pin)