Thread: Rangie Vibration

First thing I would have thought of was uni's.....but you changed them.

You could try unbolting 1 end of the rear shaft and rotating it 180degrees and bolting it back up. Probably worth a try but I doubt that is what it is.

I am thinking maybe rear tailing arm bushes or A-frame ball or bushes. I say this because it seems to be a resonance fault as it goes away at 100km/h. If it was a diff etc I would habe thought that the faster you go the worse it got.

Worn bushes couls set up a resonance vibration but you might also notice a wobble in the rear under braking.

if it's an engine vibration, try taking the flywheel cover off and removing the balancing bolt, simple job and will take about 1/2 hour. The balancing bolt is bigger than the bolts that hold the ring gear on. Also check the bellhousing bolts haven't shaken loose.

I had a vibration fron 1500 to 2000 rpm and it was getting worse and worse, then spent a day looking for it, pulled the engine out etc.. and after some 'investigating' found that the flywheel bolts and flex plate were tight and it wasn't nessacary. But I had a spare flywheel and changed it while I was there, re-tighten it and put it all bak together.

What I found was the bellhousing bolts were loose causing the entire engine to vibrate and the suto was slipping a bit,. Once I put it all back togwether, re-tighten the bellhousibng bolts, loctite the bloody thing (light grade, it's a ***** of a job so the heavy duty stuff isn't ideal), no more vibration. I'm lucky there wan't any long term damage to the torque converter, etc.. with all the movement from the engine.

Anyway, just a suggestion.

Good luck with it.

Trav

Tried rotating one end of the rear shaft but that did not fix it. I adjusted the toe out, which was 6mm, so now when I brake hard, the car does not change lanes by itself which is a pleasant change.

Walker you were on target with the A-frame ball joint - it's stuffed. I'll replace that (and possibly the trailing arm bushes) this week and see if that has any affect.

When balanced, they put three 18gm weights on the rear shaft. Seems a bit excessive to me. I want to make sure everything else is alright before I take the prop shafts back.

I'm nearing completion of a 4.2l, so when that goes in I'll check the bell housing bolts etc. I'm not game to go near the engine - the main seal is gone. Let's just say the entire underneath of the car has constant rust protection!

Don't you just love having to fix all these little problems when buying an old vehicle?

what about the easy stuff.....?
are the wheels balanced....? or buckled....?

Hi Spadge
I wonder if the vibration is now worse with the new unis because the old ones were worn and helping to dampen the vibes.Gearbox/engine mounts are worth checking.
Andrew

Originally Posted by Spadge07

...I read in some other posts about the yokes needing to be out of phase to prevent vibration...

The uni-joints of the rear shaft should be in phase.

The uni-joints of the front shaft should be out of phase, but I don't recall how many splines and it is too late to go and have a look now. This is normal for all coil sprung rovers, except disco II, which have a double cardan joint.

Bit of an update: I had the wheels balanced and a proper wheel alignment done. I also replaced the A-frame ball joint which was stuffed. The trailing arm bushes are pretty good so don't need replacing. And thanks for the phase info Bush65.

Anyway, now the vibration is a lot more pronounced! LandyAndy I think you are on ball - it seems the things I have fixed were absorbing the vibration and dampening the effect in the cabin. I can feel it a lot through the steering wheel, but also through the seat and floor - and now the rear view mirror has started vibrating at certain speeds too.

I figure either the tailshafts have not been balanced properly or there is another drivetrain vibration somewhere. I definitely feels as though it is somewhere in the drivetrain because the resonance of the vibration changes as the speed of the car changes. Also, the vibration can now only be noticed on acceleration or steady throttle - it disappears if I back off.

If I get time this weekend I'll swap the tailshafts (one at a time) and see if there is a difference. I'll look at the mounts again too. It is really starting to bug me, and so is not having the time to fix it!