Weeds, you might need new bushes... You can only tighten them so far, because there is a crush tube (from memory) in the middle of them. I think you would get more torque from a big bar than a rattle gun anyway.
i can see daylight between the rear bush and the mount
i went to nip the nut up a bit, got about one full turn and my breaker bar snapped, i won't tell you how long the cheater bar was
how does one tighten it, was thinking of using a mates compressor with rattle gun
Weeds, you might need new bushes... You can only tighten them so far, because there is a crush tube (from memory) in the middle of them. I think you would get more torque from a big bar than a rattle gun anyway.
yep.....we used to use FB spanners.......
a ring spanner or the foot and a half long shifter.....a ring spanner is the best and safest option......
or a quality breaker bar......but most bolts dont have enough room for sockets......
as for the bush in question....i would say yours is shot.....as mentioned above.....
grab your largest flat blade slide it between the bush and mount bush has failed when it very easy to move or the centre bush has come away/torn from rubber. These don't fail very often.
yep there is a 2-3mm gap between the rear ubber and the mount, u must have run out of thread as i snapped my breaker barOriginally Posted by weiry
will buy some new ones along with a rear pinion seal and t-case rear output seal
Weeds check the front ones off your radius arms as they usually wear to gether. When these bushes are worn it contibutes to an illusion of drivetrain backlash you will notice the difference when you change them. And yes you do simply run out of thread, the retaining nuts are nylocks which is a good indication of the tension requiredOriginally Posted by weeds
Paul.
77 series3 (sold)
95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
2003 XTREME Td5
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks