is this info on the RAVE cd?
well my 160,000km service (So major 40,000km service) is coming up and I'm slowing getting together all the stuff needed to do it and working out what I will get someone else to do, if anyone can let me know what is needed and what isn't that would be great, she has been regularly serviced every 10,000kms :
To do myself :
* Fit new air filter
* Change engine oil and oil filter
* Change diff oil
* Change Transfer case oil
* Grease drive line
* Fit new spark plugs for tune
* Check all bolts are torque up right
*
To get LR mechanic to do :
* Electronic tune
* Transmission service
* Brake fluid, change completely, pretty sure this hasn't been done in a very long time !
* Road test car and report anything that needs doing
* check car on hoist and report anything that needs doing
*
Already done within the last 10,000kms :
* Flushed cooling system
* New petrol filter
* New radiator hoses
* New drive new belt
*
Not sure if need doing :
* Swivel fluid ?? (Has been done within the last 40,000km's, I'm pretty sure)
* Power steering fluid ??
*
Thx
Matt.
is this info on the RAVE cd?
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Had a look on mine before, but wasn't much... I think my Haynes manual has more, but it's at home.
also was more after what people think, than what LR says you have to do.![]()
Matt.
change all your oils...including swivel hubs.....diffs.....transfer case......power steering.....and brake fluid.....and grease the prop shafts....
all your filters.......air oil fuel.......
you can buy a vaccuum bleeder from repco or similar......
it uses compressed air to create a vaccuum to suck the fuid through your brake system.....
it makes bleeding brakes a one man operation......
if you are gonna tackle this yourself.....i can go through the procedure for you......
and its always easy to choose a different colour brake fluid to whats in there.....
when you are changing the fluid at each wheel.....you simply look for a colour change....
that way you know all the old stuff is out.....and there is less wasteage this way....
you can also use this to suck out the power steering fluid from the reservior.....then refill with fresh oil.....
do this two or three times after driving the vehicle between changes and the oil should be nice and clean......
fresh oil still has all its lubricating properties and makes things last longer.....
check all the rubber bushes in the suspension system and make sure every nut
and bolt you can see under there is tight.....and also the prop shaft bolts.....
when was the last time you re-packed or replaced wheel bearings.....?
take the hose off from your air cleaner to the throttle butterfly......open the throttle butterfly
and spray with carby cleaner......and wipe clean with a clean rag or a tooth brush.....
all that carbon build up affects smooth idling speeds........
as for your tune up.....replacing the plugs is pretty much all that gets done...unless there is a problem.......
you could also test your ignition leads.....using multimeters.....
you are looking for 8-10,000ohms resistance per foot as acceptable......
check your brake pads still have enough friction material on them......more than 2-3 mm is ok......
(you could also check to see if your discs arent too worn....not very often done....)
check all the steering system for freeplay....tierods and ball joints....you will need someone to rock
the steering wheel left to right while you are underneath checking.....
and a light check.....make sure all your lights work....
lube your doors.....with dri-lube.....so it wont collect too much dust....
all this shouldnt take you too long....you should have it all done by about friday.......
love itOriginally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
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have been thinking about doing the brakes myself, as i have done alot on this car myself already, but after my last effort on my ford escort, I was put off. but the vaccuum bleeder does sound very interesting.
Is this what u mean ? http://www.justtools.com.au/prod3560.htm not cheap, have checked out repco and they have a ABW one for $100, is there any technic to bleeding the brakes, i.e what ones do u do first front back, left, right ?
have replaced the discs and brake pads about 20,000km's ago now, but didn't do much to the bearings, just added a bit more grease and re-tightened after replacing the discs, is that all is meant by re-packing ?
with the power steering fuild do u need to bleed it ? or will work most of the air bubbles out ? also what is the best way to empty it, just pull the bottom most hose off ?
thx.
I think you have listed everything Matbor.
As for the brakes you can use a Mt Franklins water bottle and some clear flexible tubing to bleed them. Just hang the bottle from the underside of the car with some wire then put some fluid into the bottle and run the pipe from the bleed nipple into the bottle making sure the end of the hose in the bottle is below the level of the fluid in the bottom so air doesnt get sucked in. The sit in the car and pump the brakes making sure you keep the brake fluid levels topped up, keep pumping till you see the new fluid flushing through then tighten the nipple off and repeat on all the other corners. Matt
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.
Is yours auto or manual? Matt
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.
Auto.
This is out of my old D1 Owners BookOriginally Posted by matbor
See attached
Ladas
Last edited by ladas; 11th January 2007 at 04:37 PM.
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