Immoblizer, BCU, EKA's and loss of will to live

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Originally Posted by peter51

I think Shack is after the numbers on yr ECU - see below

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Correct

Retry the correct access code method first as discussed above - good call.
Putting the key in the ignition immediately after opening the drivers door might stop the alarm - pretty sure.
If it doesn’t stop the alarm then Disconnecting the horn is for yr hearing - I would have to look at the circuit diagram to see if only the alarm horn or all horns are activated.
Maybe someone with access to the circuit diagrams could help you with that - it’s on my PC at home - can check in a few days when I get back.

Hi if you want to send me your original key fob maybe minus the actual key I may be able to repair it,depending on how bad the damage is from the salt water..I have repaired d2 keys before for some of the Landy independents…I won’t charge you anything except postage back to u if it works..your choice I am in Perth😁

Try 1515, I was recently reading that this is the ‘default’ EKA code. I have not tried it myself.
NB: It is so easy to stuff up the EKA procedure and I have usually had success on the 3rd attempt, make sure there are no undue pauses between the key inputs - that’s where I trip up[emoji1]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by peter51

Retry the correct access code method first as discussed above - good call.
Putting the key in the ignition immediately after opening the drivers door might stop the alarm - pretty sure.
If it doesn’t stop the alarm then Disconnecting the horn is for yr hearing - I would have to look at the circuit diagram to see if only the alarm horn or all horns are activated.
Maybe someone with access to the circuit diagrams could help you with that - it’s on my PC at home - can check in a few days when I get back.

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Perfect, thank you again Peter. Might be a while til I get any updates as postage here takes forever. I’ll hopefully have something to report back soon. Really appreciate the help!

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Originally Posted by Bradtot

Hi if you want to send me your original key fob maybe minus the actual key I may be able to repair it,depending on how bad the damage is from the salt water..I have repaired d2 keys before for some of the Landy independents…I won’t charge you anything except postage back to u if it works..your choice I am in Perth😁

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Hi Brad, that would be awesome. Not much to lose giving it a try at this point. I’ll PM you.


I have tried 1515.. unfortunately nothing with that one either.

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Originally Posted by onebob

NB: It is so easy to stuff up the EKA procedure and I have usually had success on the 3rd attempt, make sure there are no undue pauses between the key inputs - that’s where I trip up[emoji1]

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That's why mine is now 1111. Now I think of it, I should write it on the card....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by peter51

Retry the correct access code method first as discussed above - good call.
Putting the key in the ignition immediately after opening the drivers door might stop the alarm - pretty sure.
If it doesn’t stop the alarm then Disconnecting the horn is for yr hearing - I would have to look at the circuit diagram to see if only the alarm horn or all horns are activated.
Maybe someone with access to the circuit diagrams could help you with that - it’s on my PC at home - can check in a few days when I get back.

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Well.. just an update on this as I said I would..

Nanocom arrived, tried today with the EKA code from the dealer. Nanocom couldn’t communicate with the ECU and alarm was still active.

I’ve sent my fobs to Brad in case he may be able to repair them. Full faith in Brad’s ability but I’m not holding my breath. Nothing has been simple with this car.

Awaiting delivery of the BCU and fob I ordered from the UK. That’s my next idea if Brad doesn’t save the day.

Does anyone have an instructional on programming the BCU to ECU? I’ve tried looking around but there’s nothing clear on what steps to take.

Until then the old girl is just losing more clear coat in the harsh Pilbara sun.

I'll try again..


What revision ECU do you have?

Pretty sure the nano should still communicate with an immobilised ECU.... You might wanna start looking there.

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Originally Posted by shack

I'll try again..


What revision ECU do you have?

Pretty sure the nano should still communicate with an immobilised ECU.... You might wanna start looking there.

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Ok I will go have a look tomorrow and find out the revision and let you know.

From all the reading I’ve done, a nanocom won’t communicate with anything if it’s not immobilised but I could be wrong. Especially so, seeing as the BCU is the what allows the ECU to do it’s proper function? Again could well be wrong!