Reply With QuoteI can’t help, except to say that if the previous owner did change the EKA he would probably have gone for something simple. I did when I changed mine. I went with 01-01-01-01. Maybe try that. Good luck with it.
Fossicker
Hello Beloved AULRO People,
It's been a long time since posting and I would love to say it's been happy sailing but I would be a liar...
My latest and most mystifying issue is as follows: (apologies in advance if this goes on and on)
I have a D2 TD5, had one key that got wet. Tired contact cleaner, drying out, new batteries, no luck.
I have an EKA code written in the manual by the previous owner (I'm assuming), but that does not work. Tried every trick I can think of, looked for hours at forums to see if I'm missing something but no joy.
Called Land Rover, got a different EKA for the VIN, again tried everything I can find or think of but still no joy.
Tried every scan tool in town, no joy.
Ordered a Nanocom, recently realised it wont work without the car immobilized. Sh**
The closest I have gotten is the red flashing light on the dash seems to stop on occasion at random when trying EKAs, then I open the door and alarm goes again.
I live 800kms from Geraldton and that is the closest dealer that may be able to fix it. To get the car there is $900 on a truck one way, ++ whatever it costs to fix and ++ return trip.
I have sunk more money into this car than I paid for it and to be honest when it's running I love it. I just want it to start.
My next thoughts are, the bloke who had it previous may of programmed a different EKA that isn't written down anywhere leaving me stranded. He's fiddled with just about everything I pull apart so who knows.
Can things like the wheel horn not working somehow effect the EKA? I've checked fuses, they all seem ok but the horn hasn't worked since owning it?
The fuel cap doesn't seem to shut properly, tired jamming it shut while I do EKA but could that somehow effect it?
The car was running ok until that fateful trip on the jet ski.
Would ordering a secondhand BCU be a worthwhile idea? Would that be programmable despite the other things like horn etc not working?
Do I sell my last remaining organs to get it to Geraldton to have it possibly fixed by them?
I will send a carton of beer to whoever can get this thing going, and owe a life of gratitude on top.
Thank you,
John
LordRover
SubscriberI can’t help, except to say that if the previous owner did change the EKA he would probably have gone for something simple. I did when I changed mine. I went with 01-01-01-01. Maybe try that. Good luck with it.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
SupporterHave a look at the description of the security system. There is passive and active modes.
Im away from home for week so cannot access my files on this.
There is also a PDF on nanocom website on the BCU settings.
When you get your nanacom - open the car with the key and put the key into the ignition - this disables passive mode via the coil around the barrel and a chip inside the key - that chip should be unaffected by the water hopefully.
The red immobiliser LED will still be flashing due to the active mode.
Ensure you have good battery voltage and select position 1 - engage nanocom and access the BCU.
Select disable on all passive security fields. Set it so that a simple key turn unlocks and disables passive mode.
The engine will run for 30 seconds and shutdown if I recall because of the active immobilisation.
I don’t believe you can disable active security which has immobilised the engine - but you can buy a patch from 3rd parties to disable active immobilisation - I saw it for 50 pounds - someone on AULRO might have it cheaper.
If you are successful - please post the result - unlike a lot of others who ask for help and never post the result - which doesn’t help anyone.
1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
Freelander 2 2012
1992 RRC sold and now pranged.
ChatterBox
SupporterHi John,
What ECU revision are you running?
Master
SupporterTo help clarify the BCU settings once you get your nanocom - change your BCU settings from default to modify as per this table.
Also disable superlock as it can malfunction as the door actuators wear - its in there somewhere else.
The nanocom BCU description is attached - found it on my tablet.
Screen Shot 09-02-23 at 09.11 AM.PNG
1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
Freelander 2 2012
1992 RRC sold and now pranged.
Fossicker
I’m not sure, how do I find that out?Originally Posted by shack
Thank you Peter, I will follow the steps you gave once it arrives and definitely keep you posted.
I also had a couple drinks late last night and ordered a back-up BCU with fob off eBay so if nanocom can’t get it in, I will try switching the BCU.
Would the alarm still be expected to be sounding following your steps with nanocom? I guess I’m asking is it normal for alarm to sound even in passive mode?
Master
SupporterHi John - I believe that once you unlock manually with key the alarm will go off - put the key into the ignition and I think it should stop if the chip is OK. That is the chip which interacts with the exciter coil around the barrel.
If not you need to disconnect all the horns etc.
The immobiliser will still be flashing meaning engine immobilised.
You will have to do some reading regarding the BCU swap - the key and BCU you bought must be matched. If so try that swap before receiving yr nanocom but someone else needs to advise if you need to sync this new BCU first - I don’t know on that one but the info will be available on the internet.
Ask whoever sold you the BCU if they also gave the emergency access code.
I think shack needs to know your ecu because he may be able to get rid if the immobiliser part once you get up and running.
Now once you have a working key and car look on the circuit board of the key - there is a 4mm square metal chip on there which has a number for you to google - or it may say 315 or 433 - that is the SAW resonator and the 315 or 433 is the frequency. You need to get a spare key which you can program to your car using the nanocom - then stow somewhere safe.
If it is 315 then I have a genuine FOB here that is no use to me.
Overall in the end remove all passive and active immobilisation - and superlock - so it’s easy to get back in and start with just the key. It us easy to immobilise the vehicle in other ways.
Best of luck.
1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
Freelander 2 2012
1992 RRC sold and now pranged.
Master
SupporterI think Shack is after the numbers on yr ECU - see below
1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
Freelander 2 2012
1992 RRC sold and now pranged.
TopicToaster
SupporterJust to be sure that you used the EKA procedure correctly too(not saying you haven't but just to be sure you had)
The very first step is to hold the key in the unlocked position for a few sec, till you hear the confirmation 'blip', and from that point you then begin the EKA key sequence.
Unlock x number of times, then lock x number of times ... etc
it seems unlikely that someone would have gone to the trouble of writing it down and it not working, and more likely the procedure hasn't been done right(been there, and done it!)
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Fossicker
Thanks Peter, I will see how I go. The new BCU is coming from the UK, apparently it is matched and has an EKA provided. So assuming that’s all accurate it should work together ok. I’ll just need to do more reading as you regarding the actual swap with the current one.
In terms of disconnecting the horns, is that for my ears sake or does that do something to the system? Unfortunately the alarm goes even when unlocking with the key. It might be a good idea for me to leave the car fully locked with battery connected for a day and then re-try with the key to unlock. Perhaps all my attempts coming and going has sent the BCU into a tizzy…
Thank you for the offer of the key, I will keep that in mind as I go. Car is down at a mates yard so will have a look when I go back regarding ECU.
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