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Thread: Series Three Fuel Vaporising

  1. #1
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    Series Three Fuel Vaporising

    Ok…
    Series 3 Lightweight. 2 1/4 Petrol.
    Over the years, I’ve always noticed what a believe are vapour lock issues.
    This tends to occur at 30°c and up, and is noticeable when “giving it to it”. The vehicle used to start to buck and lurch, losing power.
    I have removed the stock AC pump and replaced it with an electric one (wired to ignition but read other threads for safety issues). This made a large difference.
    I have also swapped the gasket in the Enott’s fuel tank tap/switch, in case there was an air leak.
    I have a mesh filter on the pump intake (situated on the chassis cross member in front of the right hand tank) and a mini paper filter near the carby input. Fuel lines are hard plastic with insulation over them (neoprene tubing).
    I notice that when the motor is hot, I see irregular bubbles coming into the clear paper filter near the carby (zenith type).
    I no longer seem to get the lurching I had with the AC pump, but perhaps still some power loss when hot and the idle is less smooth after a spot of work.
    Is this just a fact of life with modern fuels? Even back in the late ‘90s I recall stopping, up near Newman in WA, on a plus 40°c day and I could actually clearly hear the fuel in one of the tanks boiling (a kind of metallic bubbling noise. No I didn’t take the lid off - under seat type - to look!). A container of water in the passenger footwell got too hot to put my hand in: it’s a toasty little machine!
    I see online people with older vehicles running a filter that sends a recirculating line back to the fuel tank but I guess it’s more difficult with two tanks.
    Unless I’m missing something I think it’s just a thing I’ll have to ignore. I believe I’ve done all the basic things I could do without major work/fuel solenoids/return lines etc.
    Thoughts?
    Cheers,
    Dave

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    This is not an inherent problem with this engine, so it should be fixable. The vaporisation will be somewhere on the suction side of the fuel pump, and is most likely due to some sort of restriction in flow(or a slight air leak), such as the screen on the drop pipe in the tank being largely blocked, or the screen in the fuel pump water trap (if the older type of pump), or a kinked or flattened fuel pipe, or the two way tap not being fully in either tank position. These restrictions mean the pressure can be reduced in the line between the restriction and the pump to well below atmospheric, so that the fuel boils at a lower temperature.

    I see you have fitted an electric pump. rather than considering a recirculation line, perhaps consider an electric pump right at each tank, but I wonder if you are somehow getting unusually high heat levels, for example by having the fuel line to the left tank too close to the exhaust or ignition too retarded etc.

    I have been driving 2.25 Series 2/3 Landrovers for over sixty years, including a lot in NQ and NT as well as inland NSW and Qld, and have never had this issue. Fuel evaporating from the carby when parked hot, yes, but vapor lock, no. Maybe it is a Lightweight thing due to the different bodywok keeping the hot air from the engine more confined.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    If its happening to both tanks, the common item is the change over valve leaking at the stem seal.

    if its only happening to one tank

    check the unions on the lines to the tank and the screen in the tank, if its clogged up when the engine is running at anything much past a fast idle the lift pump can create enough suction to vaporise the fuel in the line if the temp is much north of something like 28 degrees. any other restriction in the system before the pump can cause the same issue.

    you might also have the fuel bowl (on the lift pump) developing a leak as the metal expands faster than the glass bowl.
    Dave

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  4. #4
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    Edit since posting- I see where there may be a packing on the stem, I’ll take a look at it… I didn’t think it had a sealing purpose as that area has no “connection” to the fuel circulation through the tap…

    Thanks people!
    Good to hear it’s not commonplace, gives me hope to find a cause.
    On my change over tap there’s no stem seal: It’s a flat disc of cork with four holes, and a fifth centre hole the shaft goes through. The tap is basically a casting with a U shaped pipe on a disc pushed up against two possible inlets and two holes that both lead to an outlet.

    973G: Cork gasket - For 973, CA456, 575 and other ENOTS type taps - Changeover Taps - Taps & Valves - Pipe, Fittings & Taps - Classic Car Parts | Complete Automobilist

    CA456A: Three way changeover tap - 3/8" BSP male threads, extended spindle - Changeover Taps - Taps & Valves - Pipe, Fittings & Taps - Classic Car Parts | Complete Automobilist

    It also switches over the fuel gauge senders externally.
    It is complex and would put some drag on the fuel…

    The issue is with both tanks and more noticeable when hot. I will do another search for a blockage or leak! No luck so far…

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