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Thread: D2 V8 doesn’t run due to the immobiliser

  1. #1
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    D2 V8 doesn’t run due to the immobiliser

    Hello All,

    As per the subject line that was borrowed from a Marketplace advertisement. It seems to be a trend where people are attempting to sell D2 V8s or diesels that do not run because of their immobiliser. There are also a couple of Jeeps, and a Commodore ute with the same issue. This comment is then frequently followed by something along the lines of ..."this is a great car, if it would start".

    This begs the question ... what would you need to get the immobiliser to mobilise? Is it a job for a locksmith? If so what sort of budget would need to be allocated?

    Or does it require one of those Nanocom gizmo packs that people ask if they can borrow one to help sort their cars out. For example, currently someone in Melbourne is asking to borrow a Nanocom.

    Or are immobiliser locked vehicles best avoided as they represent the tip of an electronic ills formed iceberg? Where the likelihood of their - once 'mobilised', being reliable cars is really zip.

    There just seems to be multiple bargains out there, simply because the car will not start! The bulk of the cars I have previously bought were non-runners. So, I would not be bucking a trend anyway. The car doesn't run ... 'meh!' They were Series vehicles so I knew they did not have an issue with their electronics. For obvious reasons.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Last edited by Lionelgee; 15th March 2024 at 07:48 PM.

  2. #2
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    If the D2 is anything like the P38 you can get the BECM reprogrammed to disable it completely. You could also just put a speeduino or megasquirt under the bonnet. and bypass the entire ECU but you would need to wire in a seperate starter wire I think.

    in short, not cheap

    -P

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    If the D2 is anything like the P38 you can get the BECM reprogrammed to disable it completely. You could also just put a speeduino or megasquirt under the bonnet. and bypass the entire ECU but you would need to wire in a seperate starter wire I think.

    in short, not cheap

    -P
    Hello Prelude,

    Yes, it does not sound cheap! It would also help if I knew what you were referring to. Some internet searches are about to be undertaken. Obviously not Series II, IIA or III related stuff. I feel my horizons are about to expand.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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    Hello Prelude,

    So far so good.. Both accessed 15th March 2024 from, . Home | Speeduino - Open, easy engine management

    https://megasquirt.info/


  5. #5
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    The megasquirt is really popular however not as open source as it once was. The same software (tuner studio) works on the speeduino as well though.

    Thing is, the BECM in the P38 (and the D2 shared SOME components with the P38) will communicate both ways and when you turn the key and the immobiliser is out of order, the starter signal will not be sent so you would need to bypass that as well.

    In any case, if the car is cheap enough you can certainly make something out of it

    -P

  6. #6
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    Hello Prelude,

    I have just watched a couple of YouTube clips about Land Rover Discovery 2 - Immobiliser Lockout and EKA Over-rides - accessed 15th March 2024, from LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 98-04 EKA lockout. How to enter the EKA code correctly vehicle immobilised - YouTube
    Land Rover Discovery 2 - Immobilisor Lockout and EKA Over-ride - YouTube

    This YouTube clip suggests that there is a button on the engine side of the firewall which can be pressed. This is step that is completed which might disengage the immobiliser without needing to enter an EKA code. non starting discovery td5. try this fix before getting an EKA code. - YouTube

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  7. #7
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    The button is an inertia switch which activates in the event of a collision and shuts things down... unfortunately it doesn't always take a collision.
    A Nanocom can read the EKA code, so you can do the whole tedious process. Good thing they didn't use HEX. I reprogrammed mine to be simple. A Nanocom can also disable the anti theft, but sometimes it needs a more drastic approach. It can be done in the ECU, carefully. Some tutes around for that. Nanocom is a must have for D2 ownership IMO.
    Whether you want a V8 D2 is a whole other lottery.

    EVA code was supplied with the vehicle on a little card, which also had the radio code. That's not going to get lost, is it?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Whether you want a V8 D2 is a whole other lottery.
    Hello Tins,

    Just wondering whether your comment about the V8 D2 was in relation to their fuel consumption? I had thought that the D2 V8 was a reliable motor. Is this not the case?

    There is a bit of history behind my thinking. I very regretfully sold my V8 Commodore when the Queensland government first wanted over a thousand dollars each year to register V8s. My last registration fee for my V6 Commodore, two weeks ago, was over one thousand dollars. My prior excuse of not having a V8 - because they cost over a thousand dollars per annum to register - was evaporated. I figured that I would take the approach where I might as well be hung for a sheep instead of a lamb . You know, go the whole hog. If I am going to ripped off to register a six cylinder for over $1k, I might as well be ripped off for a V8. There is just something about V8 ownership that gets into your blood. It seems to stay there laying dormant for decades. Then an event will re-trigger the impulse. 'Mmmmm ... V8 ... drool, drool'. You know a similar response to Homer Simpson and donuts. Accessed, 16th March 2024 from, Homer ‘Mmm Donuts’ | The Simpsons Catchphrase - YouTube

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Tins,

    Just wondering whether your comment about the V8 D2 was in relation to their fuel consumption? I had thought that the D2 V8 was a reliable motor. Is this not the case?



    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Not getting into that one, Lionel. Very fraught topic...

    Know what you mean about V8s.

    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Tins,

    Just wondering whether your comment about the V8 D2 was in relation to their fuel consumption? I had thought that the D2 V8 was a reliable motor. Is this not the case?

    There is a bit of history behind my thinking. I very regretfully sold my V8 Commodore when the Queensland government first wanted over a thousand dollars each year to register V8s. My last registration fee for my V6 Commodore, two weeks ago, was over one thousand dollars. My prior excuse of not having a V8 - because they cost over a thousand dollars per annum to register - was evaporated. I figured that I would take the approach where I might as well be hung for a sheep instead of a lamb . You know, go the whole hog. If I am going to ripped off to register a six cylinder for over $1k, I might as well be ripped off for a V8. There is just something about V8 ownership that gets into your blood. It seems to stay there laying dormant for decades. Then an event will re-trigger the impulse. 'Mmmmm ... V8 ... drool, drool'. You know a similar response to Homer Simpson and donuts. Accessed, 16th March 2024 from, Homer ‘Mmm Donuts’ | The Simpsons Catchphrase - YouTube

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Fraught topics, I can hear mister eminem singing "now this looks like a job for me..."

    The reliability of the venerable rover V8 has been discussed to death I should think but just to summarize:

    • They'll keep running until they are very worn
    • very easy and old tech, apart from the fuel injection stuff
    • used casting tools WAY too long so the latest engines suffered from poor tolerances in casting
    • overheating/slipped liners are a thing.


    I should imagine that any car of that age should have had issue by now so either has had the engine work done already or it will probably never get any, that is, within it's expected lifetime of say 250.000 to 500.000 k's. I recently pulled my 4.5 apart after 70.000k's on the rebuild and it looked as new BUT I do oil and filter every 5000k's and I use valvoline VR1 20W50 oil exclusively.

    with a light right foot it can be "frugal" for a V8 but that is about it. Not what you bought a V8 for to begin with :P

    So, as with all cars it depends on the state of the rest of the vehicle. Is it an auto or manual, how many miles etc etc. If you can get the car for near free because the current owner does not know how to fix the immobiliser you'll have some spare cash to do the no doubt necessary work

    I second that the button is only a fuel cutoff, should give you a different message on the display, if any. The lockout will tell you "engine defect" or something at least in my car. Never had to use the EKA code but yes, I forgot about that one, that is worth a try. Still. I would do that after purchase and not on the blokes driveway hahaha

    Cheers,
    -P

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