Engine Oil leaks, again and again

**JohnE** · 22nd August 2006, 08:36 AM

I know this one has been done to death. I am sick of tightening and re tightening and using copious amounts of degreaser to stop the oil puddling over the front diff. (300TDI)
Yes i know everyone else has the same problem.
I remember reading ages ago, or was it years, can't remember. That someone went to Pirtek or someone similiar and got a new set of oil lines made up.Can anyone remember that.( My searches don't quite come up right)
My question is this, the new lines that were made up, were they complete from the side of the oil filter to the radiator/cooler, completely doing away with the metal pipes in the middle.
It seems to me that is the obvious way of fixing that anoying little problem.
Any better ideas?

john

**JohnE** · 22nd August 2006, 08:48 AM

I must be a dill tried the search again and got a thread from last month, am definately getting senile.
So aces connections went all the way, I would be interested in the pressure hose and clamp arrangement sounds easier.

**Phoenix** · 22nd August 2006, 08:49 AM

There was a couple of articles about it in the magazine, i'll post them here later

**JohnE** · 22nd August 2006, 08:54 AM

That would be great, i was just remembering how the cooler lines went from my pajero and they were a flexible coupling swaged from the filter to the cooler and they never leaked.

john

**edddo** · 22nd August 2006, 11:10 AM

aaahhhhhhh I just worked out what you are talking about--oilleaks from the eng oil cooler lines. Just had mine refabricated locally with very high pressure lines garanteed to never leak again-in my case the metal sections are retained but much higher quality hose and joins fixes things up. Expensive but those lines need to be reliable. Let me know if u want details.

**JohnE** · 23rd August 2006, 07:44 AM

Mate
if you could that would be good, i had a good look at the setup the other day, and the main problem as most know is where the flexible lines join the metal pipes. i think by doing away with the metal would alleviate the problem of too many joins, just have one connection at the start and the end.
Ace mentioned he was doing the same in his post.
Who did you use? I am near Lismore and the closest i have is an enzed hose person.

john

**dobbo** · 23rd August 2006, 07:52 AM

I've heard oil leaks are the way your land rover tells you it wants to go off road.

Enzed should be able to help you out.

**waynep** · 24th August 2006, 09:29 AM

I just had my oil cooler hoses modified down at my local LR servicer yesterday. They were beginning to leak at the engine end.

They got the mobile Hose Doctor guy in and he replaced the hose and connectors with proper hydraulic fittings. They claim it is "ten times" stonger than OE.

Not cheap doing it this way but easy -they refit the hose etc.

I haven't had a good look at it yey but may take some photos on the W/E and post them.

**njz** · 24th August 2006, 10:24 PM

I replaced the top line with a genuine one as I read that they have improved the design. The old one started to leak where the rubber joins the metal, it lasted 9 years.

**edddo** · 25th August 2006, 09:24 AM

Originally Posted by JohnE

Mate
if you could that would be good, i had a good look at the setup the other day, and the main problem as most know is where the flexible lines join the metal pipes. i think by doing away with the metal would alleviate the problem of too many joins, just have one connection at the start and the end.
Ace mentioned he was doing the same in his post.
Who did you use? I am near Lismore and the closest i have is an enzed hose person.

john

Hi John

What I had done - on advice from my local landy loving mechanic-was:

Replace old hoses with new high pressure (16Mpa?), high temperature, high quality, hydraulic hose

All new high quality, high pressure metal line to rubber joins (suauges?), the key is quality! LR ones are krap.

add a screw on junction at the elbow (in line with the hose) on the top line -this is important as it means it can be tightened without loading up the hose which can cause premature failure.

Any hydraulic hose place could do this-the important bit is the extra junction on the elbow and the high quality fittings.

Cost me over $200 but....what do the LR replacements cost?

Hope thats useful-could supply pics if required-that would force me to work out how to do it!

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Engine Oil leaks, again and again

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