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Thread: rewiring UHF and Cel-Fi

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb rewiring UHF and Cel-Fi

    Need an adult to check my wiring. Currently setup like this and it works, but I have a cig plug dangling off the dash when the UHF and Cel-Fi aren't powered, and I can't power them independently if I have one or the other antennas removed.

    The UHF was supplied with a 10A fuse, and the Cel-Fi is currently piggybacking off it.


    GRvC0dnElT.png

    Plan is to rewire like this:

    ZGtPtIoyM6.jpg

    That removes the dangly cig plug, and allows me to switch them independently. The switches are 20A rated. Thoughts?
    "Serenity" - 2001 TD5 Defender 110 Xtreme Wagon

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Looks OK to me but I'm a long retired electronics tech. Fusing is overkill but OK. The switches are more than adequate.

    Getting rid of the cigarette socket/plug is a good idea.
    Ron B.
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  3. #3
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Fusing is overkill but OK.
    Agree. If it were me (and it isn't) I'd put a single 10A fuse at the battery end and make sure all the cabling and switchgear is good for > 10A. Remember the fuse is only there to protect the wiring.

    Oh, the big difference between what you had and what you've drawn is what you had will power down the gear when the car is off. What you've drawn leaves open the possibility of forgetting to turns something off and winding up failing to proceed. Otherwise what Ron said.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    Thanks both.

    What you've drawn leaves open the possibility of forgetting to turns something off and winding up failing to proceed
    Understood, though these would run off the secondary battery which is protected by a Redarc VSR from discharging the main.
    "Serenity" - 2001 TD5 Defender 110 Xtreme Wagon

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Agree. If it were me (and it isn't) I'd put a single 10A fuse at the battery end and make sure all the cabling and switchgear is good for > 10A. Remember the fuse is only there to protect the wiring.

    Oh, the big difference between what you had and what you've drawn is what you had will power down the gear when the car is off. What you've drawn leaves open the possibility of forgetting to turns something off and winding up failing to proceed. Otherwise what Ron said.
    The smart move would be to connect it to a second battery, protected by a Traxide (or similar but inferior) isolator.
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