Thread: Air suspension control

Have you thought of using a D3/D4 or any LR air suspenison front or rear valve block? They have a valve for each side and a cross-link valve which could be opened to raise or lower both sides together, then adjust the odd side using that side valve. They're very reliable if the air doesn't contained bits of dessicant. They operate on 12V.

Hi,
No control of anything on mine. Just the Schrader valves and it is fine for months.
I had a flat steel strap I hung on a tie down rail that touched the axle cover when the bags are 10 inches high (60 psi with the camper on)
I mainly inflate with an ARB compressor in a box, but have used a Rega Ded-Eezy hand pump (not so dead easy these days). Having seen a Milwaukee battery pump used to air up after a trip, I would like one of those.
Cheers

Both good suggestions, thankyou. Perhaps ditching the control valving altogether would make for the most reliable solution, as suggested- I have a mounted compressor and tank, with air outlets on either side of the car and carry a hose long enough to reach all the tyres including trailer when necessary, I had thought about the hassle of getting out the long air hose all the time but I could carry a short length just for the purpose. Only having to do this with changes in load or when levelling the camper, rather than every time I use the vehicle, sounds like a great improvement.
I had a soft-dash RRC that I re-equipped with EAS after a previous owner had fitted coils; my memories are not exactly of a reliable, hassle-free system but perhaps that was improved on later vehicles?

By the time the D2 came along, it was possible to go for multiple years without any air suspension dramas at all.

D3 and above are no different, it's likely many haven't touched the air suspension system for 100 000 km. (And more) In fact I'm not sure ours was touched until 250 000.

There was a company that was selling an automatic ride height controller that could be used on a defender with air bags, I just cannot think who it was now.

Realistically you shouldn't need to adjust a manual system much more than you adjust your tyres.

Contrary to popular belief the EAS in the P38 CAN be quite reliable for long spells of time as well. Most did not start to get issues until they were decades old.

I wonder, is your system equipped with an air dryer of some sort? I know that land rovers with air suspension all have an intricate system to dry the air and to keep the dry "dry" by first pumping air through the dryer into the tanks / system and when deflating, returning that dry air through the dryer to the outside. This also helps keep contaminants out.

Perhaps your system has picked up some most and dirt and is clogging up your valves.

Cheers,
-P

i have a similar issue with the front axle bellows from a QLD based air suspension supplier. I initially had a leak down on the passenger front over a few days. I replaced the hoses on that corner which seemed to sort it. Then i decided to extend the manual fill schrader valves to a more convenient location on both front bellows. Since then i've got leak down on both front bellows. The car is laid up because of a busted bearing in the gearbox so i haven't turned my mind to the problem. I'm hoping it is just a poor connection at one of the fittings. Leaking from the valve body also occured to me.

As for rear controller, i toyed with the idea of fitting truck trailer height controller over the A frame ball joint (bit like the old leveller on the county). Get a version with 2 outlet valves and slow response time. 2 outlets will, in theory, mitigate cross linking the 2 bellows because the cross link would only be possible when the valves are open (whether airing up or in exhaust). Being in the centre of the axle and a slow response model, it should only respond to a prolonged height change. Side to side body roll like in a round about should not affect it as it is in the centre of the fulcrum. The only negative, there is no management of air so a good air supply would be required. The Cummins boys in UK with engine mounted air compressors like them. I'd like to try it as an experiment.

I haven't moved on this yet, been giving it some thought...obviously, simplifying the system to just a tube and valve on each spring would be most likely to eliminate problems, but it would make levelling the Trayon camper a right pain in the neck, compared to the wireless remote control- if only the thing would stay where it is set. I don't see the need for automating the system with height sensors, quite happy to still need to set it for a given load- again, if only it would stay set! I've got the camper on the car at the moment, perhaps I'll try levelling it with just the schraeder valve a few times on varying slopes and then decide if it's too cumbersome a process.

I'd be finding the leaks for a start, you need to do that before any other changes, if any.