Soldering brass.

No, I have it as rosin cored solder wire.

I have this (which is current) :
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And I managed to grab some of this before they ran out of stock :
Pro's Kit 8PK-033A-L Premium Silver Solder (2%)
I believe it's still made, I just don't know where to get it. The cost difference was significant. The difference in use is pretty much immeasurable.

I generally only use leaded solder where I can get away with it as it's just so much more forgiving, and I've used all sorts of different alloys over the years. Those two are just mint to solder with.

I have 2 rolls of this lead free stuff :
Stay Brite(R) 8 Lead-Free Solid Wire Solder - 3mm

It's fussy and needs external flux but bloody strong for a soft solder. I got it for more mechanical work where I wanted a robust solder but not at silver solder temperatures.

For silver solder I have a whole array from 5% to 56% for use with the oxy. But frankly for most small or delicate stuff this soft solder is just brilliant.

John, we'll have to start calling you Lisa (Simpson) [wink11]

https://youtu.be/B8gKnuP8eNE'si=PHfirwBNREIpL8rr

I'm expecting more doh, than Baker Street. [biggrin]

I prefer leaded as well, especially when removing or reflowing. Lower melt temperatures. But that's on electronics. This is a whole new world.

I know the question I asked referred to soldering, but I may get some tips here. Soddering can't be that different, right?

https://youtu.be/axM19M6OEgA'si=CTOousRRdslo3i7f

The sax. Tipping it's nickel plated, and I guess I'll need to remove that to fix it properly. I suppose reverse plating it would be the go. Still got to take it to bits... obviously.

Attachment 194512Attachment 194513Attachment 194514Attachment 194515

Replating it will be a challenge, at least for this novice.

Jane Kits do an "electroless" nickel plating bath (I have 5L of it here). Nasty stuff and you'll want to do it outside on a gas stove/BBQ but it works and gets into all the bits you can't reach with an electrode. I bought it to plate the hole inside a bit of drilled copper (making a new desoldering tip) because solder being sucked through it was eroding the copper. Turns out solder sticks to nickel plating like **** to a blanket, so while it didn't erode the copper it kept blocking up. Live and learn.

I've had fantastic results soldering to nickel plated steel. Actually, nickel plated anything to be fair. If you were after structural strength you could abrade the plating off the bit you want to solder to in order to get to the base metal. I suppose if you solder to the plating there's a chance it will peel off when subjected to mechanical stress.

I've never seen a plated sax. Only flutes, so this is a first.

I am pretty certain (but could be wrong) that soldering is effective on nickel plating - but not on chrome plating. Normal preparation in cleaning the surface mechanically would probably remove the nickel anyway.

Just another thought. You could remove the coating locally and then "brush plate" when it's done to restore that bit.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Jane Kits do an "electroless" nickel plating bath (I have 5L of it here). Nasty stuff and you'll want to do it outside on a gas stove/BBQ but it works and gets into all the bits you can't reach with an electrode. I bought it to plate the hole inside a bit of drilled copper (making a new desoldering tip) because solder being sucked through it was eroding the copper. Turns out solder sticks to nickel plating like **** to a blanket, so while it didn't erode the copper it kept blocking up. Live and learn.

I've had fantastic results soldering to nickel plated steel. Actually, nickel plated anything to be fair. If you were after structural strength you could abrade the plating off the bit you want to solder to in order to get to the base metal. I suppose if you solder to the plating there's a chance it will peel off when subjected to mechanical stress.

I've never seen a plated sax. Only flutes, so this is a first.

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It's Italian, and possibly 70-80 years old. Pretty sure the plating is original. I'm not wedded to it, but it would look great all cleaned up. Of course it would need to be repaired where the plating has lifted, unless I want to treat it like a Series and keep the "patina".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I am pretty certain (but could be wrong) that soldering is effective on nickel plating - but not on chrome plating.

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Which leads me to my next question. How do I tell? It's so dull at the moment that colour isn't a giveaway. But it hasn't flaked where it's dented....