Thread: 300TDI rebuild.

Originally Posted by That Landy

Hi all, just bought a 300tdi out of a 96 Disco 1 and its blown a head gasket and cracked the cylinder head. Wanting to do a full rebuild on the engine. it had 586,000kms on it so was getting old. Wanting to fix what is broken and why I'm there I want to refurbish and redo the entire engine. I want a little bit more power and more reliability and possibly better cooling. Also curious about if there's anything else that I should replace while I have the engine out. thinking im doing the clutch but open to all suggestions. Im also only looking to spend around 2.5k so nothing to crazy.

Kind regards, That Landy

No advice, but good luck with the project. Some people doing things like this, would lodge up-to-date reports on their progress, in the Disco1 section of this forum.
Are you with me?

Originally Posted by Saitch

No advice, but good luck with the project. Some people doing things like this, would lodge up-to-date reports on their progress, in the Disco1 section of this forum.
Are you with me?

can you provide a link to that page. Thanks, I'm not familiar with this platform. Yes i will keep a up to date vlog of my progress just going to decide what im going to do first with your help. e.g power upgrades.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1-a/

This engine was also fitted to Defender, so a rummage through that section will no doubt bear fruit.
It would be foolish not to fit a new clutch, while the engine is out.

Originally Posted by That Landy

it had 586,000kms on it so was getting old

Probably things you are already aware of.

If you have got the gearbox and transfer case and intend using them you will no doubt will be refurbishing them. At that mileage the brass shims in the locking centre diff will likely be paper thin or non-existent.

The engine has 'T' seals about the rear crank bearing. I've never been able to stop mine leaking, engine in situ. Having your engine out may give you a better chance of fixing it and having a leak free engine.

You might want to consider a facet pump with a non return valve to replace the fuel lift pump found on the side of the engine.

The telfon(?) rear crank seal should not be lubed. Also check the unit for warped seal carrier or misaligned factory drilled bolt holes.

When installing the harmonic balancer make sure the accompanying o-ring seats in the recess at the back of the balancer and simply doesn't get squashed between the crank flange and the balancer. In theory it should really glide into its seat at the last moment but in practice it doesn't, even lubed. Install about 80% of the ring in the balancer before putting it on the crank nose. The other 20% hanging out allows the ring to pass over the two keys on the crank nose. After the second key is passed use a probe in the limited space to push the remaining 20% into its seat. Listen for the satisfying metal to metal sound as the balancer hits home. If the installation was dull and soft then the o-ring has probably not seated.

Might I suggest a visit to Mike's channel? Warning, it can be a rabbit hole, but he's pretty good.