Thread: Glue

Timely thread. I've been going through my ( mostly set solid ) adhesive collection,, looking for something to help me with this connector. I have no idea how it stayed in place. In my quest to get my D2 going I observed that it was in not good shape. High underbonnet temps, I guess. I want to glue a piece across the lugs. Temporary I guess, nut it might be doable.

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Both latches are broken, and I believe the only way to get a new plug is to pay around $1K for a harness....... Or cut one from a wreck, if I can find one that hasn't been gutted.

D1 looks even better....

EDIT: It's connector C0171, from the injector harness to the loom that goes to the red plug. Car ain't going without it.

Any ideas on an epoxy that mixed is still thin enough to run and fill a small cavity with no air bubbles. The few I have tried are all too thick?
Keith

I've given up on gluing plastics.
Got the cheapest plastic welder kit of AliEx, came with crappy nippers, but far better than any glue alone.

The cheapest kits don't have many varied wire sizes, but cheap enough to purchase kits with better selection of those too.

Glue for me is now more of an 'added' filler/strengthener rather than the main adhesive.

For when some plastic part can't be stitched together again, I think fibreglass is better.

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Any ideas on an epoxy that mixed is still thin enough to run and fill a small cavity with no air bubbles. The few I have tried are all too thick?
Keith

Heat. I mix up 24 hr araldite in a coke bottle cap and then heat it up under a lamp. Makes it run like water, and it goes off a lot faster too.

Originally Posted by AK83

I've given up on gluing plastics.
Got the cheapest plastic welder kit of AliEx, came with crappy nippers, but far better than any glue alone.

Yep, but you can't plastic weld dissimilar plastics.

Fibreglass is just a polyurethane epoxy and glass for strength. Polyurethane is alright for certain plastics, but I've used fibreglass woven mat with MMA epoxy also for plastics urethane doesn't bond well with.

Originally Posted by BradC

Yep, but you can't plastic weld dissimilar plastics......

To be sure, I was referring to the 'staple' type of plastic welding, not filler type welding of plastics.

Hope that makes sense. I find that the metal staples add strength between the parts, and for some intricate shapes, the immediacy of the joint is the primary advantage(ie. not having to wait for cure time).

Hit a roo a few days back, and silly thing cracked the lower portion of the LHS front bumper.
As I was removing the (D2a) headlight one of the locating dowel/pin parts of the headlight must have broken. On the back of the D2a headlight where it gets located into a recess hole in the wing. Has 4 gussets for it's strength.
Very awkward to add the staples into the small spaces between gussets, and it wouldn't sit in place if waiting for glue to cure. So I bent the staples to fit, 4 of them secured the piece perfectly(and if you get it wrong, easy to undo too), then added strategic blobs of epoxy for bonding all the way around .... so to speak
(note the headlight didn't break from the roo strike, it broke from me pulling it out of it's spot).

And the annoying part(4am too) I lost a too many sections of the bumper, was pressed for time as had to get missus to airport so couldn't scrounge too long, just a quick look and remove the hanging fog lamp, and keep driving. .. otherwise if I had the pieces, I'd have stitched it all back together.
So, at the moment, I have a very weird looking bullbar on the D2a.

Knelt on my glasses yesterday and snapped the arm off. Plastic frame with a metal spring hinge inside the arm. I destroyed all of it.

I've done this before (serial offender) and used a combination of epoxy, wound wire reinforcement and glue lined heatshrink to effect dodgy temporary repairs. This time I pulled the Devcon from the fridge and let it warm up, mixed, applied and held in place for 5 minutes while it gelled. This morning the glasses are usable. This is a plastic butt joint with no reinforcement. Araldite would have popped clean off the frame, even with prep, grinding/sanding and post-cure heat.

I used it recently to fix a bracket on our carpet cleaner. Another butt joint that epoxy would have failed to hold together under stress.

Next up, the bracket for the EPB switch in the D3.

Originally Posted by BradC

Knelt on my glasses yesterday and snapped the arm off. Plastic frame with a metal spring hinge inside the arm. I destroyed all of it.

I've done this before (serial offender) and used a combination of epoxy, wound wire reinforcement and glue lined heatshrink to effect dodgy temporary repairs. This time I pulled the Devcon from the fridge and let it warm up, mixed, applied and held in place for 5 minutes while it gelled. This morning the glasses are usable. This is a plastic butt joint with no reinforcement. Araldite would have popped clean off the frame, even with prep, grinding/sanding and post-cure heat.

I used it recently to fix a bracket on our carpet cleaner. Another butt joint that epoxy would have failed to hold together under stress.

Next up, the bracket for the EPB switch in the D3.

Wonder how this would go on my snapped mouthguard that I'm supposed to wear each night? Superglue only lasts a couple of days.