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Thread: Rack for a 130

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    East Gippsland
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    Rack for a 130

    hi guys i,m thinking about getting a dropside tray made for my 130 defender .
    As I,m a farmer and need to be able to load pellets of fert and feed out silage. I like the look of the tray but its got to go .
    I wanted to also get a camper made that would be able to be removed when not in use....
    Q if i wanted a roof rack to go from the top of the camper over the top of the cab aswell would i have to have two seperate racks or could i get one rack built to go over both ..
    I was a bit worried that there might be to much flex in the cab for one big rack ..

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW far north coast
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    130 CC with a HICAP ? (ute tray)

    IMO, way too much chassis flex for something solid to span the load bearing area and cab. You only have to look at how the rear cab/chassis mounts crack and shear.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Brisbane
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    If you want something strong than it will have to mount from the chassis like an exo cage. Can be done but it will cost, It could be made with the new tray as a custom unit to do what you want. The chassis will take it they are tough, the 130 is reinforced on the under side of the chassis along weight extra internal x bracing. The cab will only carry limited weight.

    glen

  4. #4
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    Melbourne
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    Hi, I've got a 3metre long galv tradesman rack, using custom struts/racks that mount on the edges of the HCPU tub. It allows removal of the canopy and lifting of the canopy windows. It is mounted above the cab with rhino racks, however only the front rhino rack is bolted to the tradesman rack. The other rhino rack is there for extra support when standing on the roof. I've driven over 70 000kms with this setup. There is a little bending of the landy roof rails, where the front rack is mounted, but, no evidence of cracking at any point. You can walk all over the front of the rack without problems. The back section over the steel struts is bloody strong. Only problem I've ever had was on the track off to the Bungle Bungles, where the rhino rack connection came loose on the roof rail, no drama, just tightened it up again and never happened again.

    In my opinion, if you're not too precious about your roof rail bending a little, then the full length rack is fine. My second spare tyre was always mounted on the stronger back section. When travelling never had any weight up front over the rhino racks. Used at home for my work as a builder, carries a s***load.

    here are a couple of photos:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...0&d=1158016865
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1158016882
    Last edited by Ben_R; 12th September 2006 at 01:13 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    East Gippsland
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    Thanx guys I,m still not to sure which way i will go ,
    I would like to see some pics i think before deciding I've seen one on a hilux dual cab that extended out over the roof with no suports it didn,t go that far over the roof though.. maybe i might do something like that it looked good..
    Although it was on a toyo..

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