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Thread: Spongy Brake Pedal Disco 1

  1. #1
    muddy69 Guest

    Spongy Brake Pedal Disco 1

    Well,

    I just replaced the bearing on both rear wheels. I inspected all four wheels and the fronts were good, but now my problem is that I have a sinking brake pedal on first application of brakes. if I pump it, i get some pedal feel and better braking.

    I had to remove the calipers on the front and rear. Have I let air into the system. I never removed the pads, but they did work loose on a couple of calipers. The calipers were supported and the brake lines were not kinked at all.

    Can anyone offer a suggestion what the problem is. I think it would be air in the brakes. Pads and Discs are in good condition. Rear rotors may need replacement soon (almost min thickness).

    Any suggestions to resolve this one..how do I bleed air from the brakes properly.

    94 Disco Series 1 V8, 2.5" OME lift, BFG A/T's, Snorkel, ARB Winch bar with Warn 9000 Winch;

  2. #2
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    yep you have air in your brakes .its normaly a 2 person job to bleed brakes but you can get a jar with hose attached to your bleeder screw pump the brakes very slowly a few times then retighten the bleeder screw do one wheel at a time and allways start the furthest point from the master cylinder

  3. #3
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    I agree you got air in the brakes, if you didnt crack any lines or bleeders it was most probabley when you backed the pads off and moved the seal on the piston in the calipers.

    If this is the case you might have problems on the inital bleed untill the seal reseats in its last position and will have to fork over for a brake caliper kit when you replace the pads as the problem will recur.

    Keep an eye on your brake fluid level and your hubs for loss. Id also be tempted to pull your wheels off after a week to check for moisture on the pads.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  4. #4
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    you could try just opening the bleed nipples.....but only one at a time......
    and letting some fluid run out.......you will see bubbles coming out of the nipple.....
    when you get clean fluid coming out without bubbles close the nipple and do the next one......
    dont let the master cylinder run out of fluid or you will have no brakes at all........

  5. #5
    muddy69 Guest
    Thanks guys. I thought it might be air.

    Will do the bleed option. Will get the handbrake (oops the Missus) to give me a hand.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddy69
    Thanks guys. I thought it might be air.

    Will do the bleed option. Will get the handbrake (oops the Missus) to give me a hand.
    Just don't get distracted with what she does with that hand...

    While you're at it (the brake bleeding that is...), if the fluid hasn't been changed for a couple of years, you might as well take the opportunity to flush through with new stuff.

    M

  7. #7
    muddy69 Guest
    Thanks M,

    I don't do things by halves usually and will do the whole job.

    Do I need any special tools. Is the bleed hose something of a particular size/make. Where would I get one cheap?

    Cheers

  8. #8
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    Repco should have the sort of thing you need for bleeding. The one I have is just a short length of clear hose with a rubber end to fit over the bleed nipple. As for the nipple itself, it's a 10mm spanner job IIRC. Start the bleeding with the front passenger side, then driver and then the same on the rear.

    HTH

    M

  9. #9
    muddy69 Guest
    Shouldn't I bleed the corner farthest from the master cylinder 1st and work my way closer. Ie pass left rear, driver rr, pass fr, driver fr ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddy69
    Shouldn't I bleed the corner farthest from the master cylinder 1st and work my way closer. Ie pass left rear, driver rr, pass fr, driver fr ?
    yes you should always start at the farthest point from the master cylinder

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