Nothing 'cheep fix' about it... Just being pragmatic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm
M
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Nothing 'cheep fix' about it... Just being pragmatic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm
M
Although Brian has the training and a valid argument , Camel landy is probably right in the fact Landrover knows this was a weak spot and engineered the failure to do as little damage as possible, but in saying that what stresses can we be sure of occurred in that said failure? A check should be conducted before new parts are replaced.
I just had my belt changed after 85000km and the only difference between it and the new one was the illegible printing on the flat side, very confidence inspiring, its a 98 with the mod.
it is also true that most mechanics these days are more like new parts fitters but then you get the odd one like KIE4 on here that comes across as a real tradesman/artist in the repair of Rovers...
Hey... I've got training too.... I just can't be arsed to document it here. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDawg
Actually... It wouldn't surprise me to find that it came about more by luck than judgement. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDawg
Let's face it... if the belt lets go on the 300TDi, you still need to replace it. If you replace it and you find that there _is_ damage to the valves/pistons/con-rods too, then at least you won't have to undo the work to get the head off and/or drop the pistons out.Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDawg
Oh yes... That's why, if I'm not doing the work myself, I use specialists rather than a main dealer. The dealer will generally only replace a sub-assy where as a specialist will try & fix the actual problem. Thing is... In some ways, if you take your vehicle to a main dealer, having them replace the sub-assy is sort of doing you a favour as in the long run it's probably saving you money. Why??? Well, just look at how much they charge for labour and then think about how long it'll take them to find that 'niggling' problem!Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDawg
M
I did mine not long after i bought it, was simple enough, didnt have any real signs of wear the belt didnt look to bad. Matt
on this subject, at what stage should I change the timing chain on my 99 defender td5. has 103000km on the clock. Would rather pay a little now than have it go bang and cost a lot later.
ideas??:)
I can't be specific about the TD5, but timing chains in general very rarely need replacing before a major engine overhaul - and they generally make an awful lot of noise for tens of thousands of kilometres before they need replacing. This concept of regular replacement only came in with timing belts - chains were always replaced on condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRUT
John
Spot on, John. you only looked at chains if for some reason you had the timing cover off, or they were very noisy. a quite senior person, a former colleague, at Land Rover Australia told me last year that he recommends the belts be changed at 50000k's "and don't miss". (His emphasis). His reasoning? Belts are $80 and heads are $4000,and the belt may break in the Simpson Desert or other most inconvenient place or time. I 'phoned him because a friend was having trouble sourcing a second hand head that would not equal the price of a new one by the time it had been made good enough to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
thanks for the input.:D
Well guys and girls,
After a fun filled few weeks the disco was back on the road last weekend all running well.
Thanks for all your inputs from the forum members, and thanks again to British4wd in supplying the parts that I needed.......
Thanks
I brought mine 2nd hand from Ritters in Melbourne with 34970k on the clock. I replaced the belt, and idlers etc. The belt that had done 35000 was starting to crack on the outside and one of the bearings in the idler was "rough" my resident landy expert says certainly no more than 60,000 and don't miss.Quote:
Originally Posted by dm_td5