cut the guards and put flares on - mine have 1 inch body lift (just to fit the motor) and 2" spring and easily run 35s with the flares.
only problem I now have is too much articulation!!!
LRH
HI,
I have a disco 1, and i have already put a 2" spring lift in it.
I am hoping to put a set of 15 x 8 wide offset rims on with 32" tyres.
I am guessing that these aren't going to fit, and that is why i am looking at the 2" body lift, however it seems to be quite expensive compared to other 4wds. Some have told me that i have to weld brackets, i can't use neoprene blocks. (but i guess they are all just trying to make a quid).
Has anyone dons this before, and is there anything special i sould know?
cut the guards and put flares on - mine have 1 inch body lift (just to fit the motor) and 2" spring and easily run 35s with the flares.
only problem I now have is too much articulation!!!
LRH
Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
Foton Tunland Cummins ISF
Disco 1 3 door 4.6 V8 Auto
RRC V8 Auto "Classic" Softdash
RRC 300 TDI Auto
Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
Disco 1 300 Tdi Auto Ute
SAME Explorer 70HP 4x4 Tractor plus Nell Loader
Subaru GDA WRX
Triumph Bonneville SE
Yamaha TTR250
Too much articulation is barely enough!Originally Posted by LRHybrid100
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For 32s the 2" spring lift should be enough, although the camel cut rear guard always needs to be done.
Unless they're extremely wide.
a 2 + 2 combination should get 35s under there, with some flares.
Regards
Max P
15x 8's are a bit overkill for the tyre size, 7" rims will fit better and rub less.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
so has anyone had troubles with a body lift?
is it as easy as most other 4wds, ie: longer bolts, neoprene blocks, brakelines and steering arm?
30mm lift on Rangie Classic. Extended clutch and rear brake hoses. Spacers and longer bolts. Loosened steering column spline bolt and then retightened. Slight modification to seatbelt brace brackets.
Depending on which state you are in poly blocks are not allowed, alloy or steel would be better.Originally Posted by gkpimp
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Body lift- Simple job, it's the small stuff like seatbelts, radiator and bumper relocation are the things that make it a more 'professional' looking (I didn't lift my bullbar for the 40mm body lift I did, hardly tell it's been lifted).
You'll need 10 50mm blocks either steel or ally (mine's ally), mounts for the seatbelts (I used 10mm strip steel and 4 pins for the seat belt anchors), 50mm blocks for the load carry area (4 mounts) and to re-mount your brake line turn the rear t-piece 90 degrees and bleed brakes. Re-mount your front brake line mount 50mm lower (I did this) unless you are running long travel shocks you'll probably be better off getting longer brake lines (say 100mm for both the body and the longer travel shocks). I'v seen these mounted on a spring on the guard to eliminate the longer line binding up in the coils springs when compressed.
All up without the brake lines for me cost abouut $100. The LRA kit is about $700 for a 2.5 inch lift but you get the lot and is engeneer approved so they say.
Whatever you do, don't be dodgy. It's simple not worth it.
Trav
Graham Coopers do a 1 and 2" lift kit.
LRH
Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
Foton Tunland Cummins ISF
Disco 1 3 door 4.6 V8 Auto
RRC V8 Auto "Classic" Softdash
RRC 300 TDI Auto
Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
Disco 1 300 Tdi Auto Ute
SAME Explorer 70HP 4x4 Tractor plus Nell Loader
Subaru GDA WRX
Triumph Bonneville SE
Yamaha TTR250
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