Thread: head bolts

for 180 degrees there sure is... its called a marker pen and a scribe....

run a ruler across the face of the socket your going to use and mark the outside with the marker pen

now take the scribe and mark out where the ruler comes across the diameter giving you 2 semi circles.

when you put the socket on the head bolt hold it by hand in the direction of rotation, mark the head with the marker pen then scribe over it along side the mark on the socket. Turn the breaker bar till the mark on the far side of the socket is inline with the marking...

Of course you could just go it by eye over the orientaition of the breaker bar.

Dont forget a little bit of oil on the underside of the head of the bolt.

Thanks mate ,Ive been so stressed out with the tool I got ,I never thought of the simple things


Thanks again ur a champ

Originally Posted by Bully

Gday fella's,
Can someone help me please.
I have a 3.9lt petrol and I have just got my heads back(because they were warpt) I have read that the torque for the head bolts is 20nm then 180 degrees. i would like this to be confurmed pleaese.
My degree torgue tool is a cheap peace of crap and wont do the job.
Is there a torque I can use without using the degree torque tool?????


please help

Cheers
Bulli

it depends which engine you have - if it's one with a B suffix the 20nm is correct, if you don't have a b suffix engine number then it's 60 nm for outer row, 90 nm or the centre row and 90 nm for the inner row.

supposing you have a B suffix engine number - so you use your torque wrench to 20 nm.

Then you get a standard socket wrench and first turn all bolts 90 Degs ie 1/4 of a turn, then repeat turning a further 90 degs until total of 180 Degs

You don't need a degree torque tool - just measure the turn

90 Degs = 1/4 turn
180 degs = 1/2 turn
270 degs = 3/4 turn
360 degs = 1 complete turn

You can still use you normal torque wrench after hitting 20 - just wind it up to say 30 - 40 nm and follow the 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn

But first check what engine suffix you have as the two are very different.

Do you know the tightening sequences for the bolts ?

A common thing now is to torque the outer row of 4 bolts up to a very low setting - effectively using the bolts to merely plug the holes. This minimises further blowing of the head gaskets.

The later engines got rid of the out er row of bolts altogether.

Originally Posted by rpi engineering

Use conventional tin (shim steel ) gaskets to retain compression ratio. This is actually better than it may seem, you can (we would) refit the outer 4 offending bolts as Rover, but torque them to only 20-25ft/lb so they fill the hole but have no detrimental effect, this is generally the best option if your head and block faces are new or near perfect order.

See also http://www.rpiv8.com/engine-4.htm#gaskets

Ron

It says in RAVE

CAUTION do not tighten bolts 180 Degs in one operation

Not a problem and Im kicking myself for not pointing out the fact that you dont turn the bolts all the way in one go for 180 degrees Id do 3 passes at 60 degrees each for which you use exactly the same concept but use a nut in the socket to setup the 60 degree marks. Each point on a hex nut is 60 degrees apart. Simply lay the ruler over the nut, use the ruler marker and scribe as previously described Rotate the socket and nut one point and repeat.

mark the head as previously described and work your way around do all the head bolts

Best thing about it is once its all marked up you dont need to cock around with replacing and resetting the angle gauge.

Originally Posted by ladas

it depends which engine you have - if it's one with a B suffix the 20nm is correct, if you don't have a b suffix engine number then it's 60 nm for outer row, 90 nm or the centre row and 90 nm for the inner row.

supposing you have a B suffix engine number - so you use your torque wrench to 20 nm.

Then you get a standard socket wrench and first turn all bolts 90 Degs ie 1/4 of a turn, then repeat turning a further 90 degs until total of 180 Degs

You don't need a degree torque tool - just measure the turn

90 Degs = 1/4 turn
180 degs = 1/2 turn
270 degs = 3/4 turn
360 degs = 1 complete turn

You can still use you normal torque wrench after hitting 20 - just wind it up to say 30 - 40 nm and follow the 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn

But first check what engine suffix you have as the two are very different.

Do you know the tightening sequences for the bolts ?

Mine has 10 bolts not 14 if that helps...ill have a look tomorrow morning to double check tho....

Thanks to everyone for ur help in this matter of mine

cheers

Originally Posted by Bully

Mine has 10 bolts not 14 if that helps...ill have a look tomorrow morning to double check tho....

Thanks to everyone for ur help in this matter of mine

cheers

If it's a 10 bolt - then it is a suffix B engine, and yes up to 20 nm, then 90 then another 90

You could go 60, then 60, then the last 60 - better safe than sorry.

I'll dig out the sequence and post it