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Thread: TDi 300 & Turbo Lag

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    near Kilmore central Vic but work in Melb every day :(
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    I agree with the others
    1st mod (turn up) the fuel pump, and while your at it check for boost leaks
    bottom line is (as justinc mentioned) the design (A/R ratio) of the Tdi turbo is such that it just doesn't build full boost till over 1800RPM
    if you put a smaller turbo on your engine it'll be good at low RPM and not able to puff enough to get it over 3000 RPMs
    that's why on the HS2.8 TGV (any many modern engines) the use variable geometry turbos
    they act like tiny turbos down low in the RPM (you can hear it whistling and trying to boost at idle ) so you get full boost by 1200 RPM (pulls like a train) and as you go through the revs it opens up to flow like a bigger turbo so Carry's full boost till redline good news is I sell them bad news is I won't have any more till after x-mas
    so do you other mods first and if your still not happy call me then
    Jase

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
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    Hmmm Jase, JC and I discussed this very subject again this arvo. I desperatly trying to resist at this point. Toooo much other stuff to do.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Braidwood, NSW
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    Turbo lag is pretty much the standard on a stock Tdi. I've found that changing driving habits makes all the difference. For quick in-and-out through roundabouts, into traffic from sidestreets or crossings I use plenty of clutch slip - bring the revs up to 1400 or so, let her catch, and if it doesn't get going giveit a little more clutch to bump the revs into boost and then slide the clutch back out again. I've surprised a lot of people with what my Disco can do (terrifies the wife...).

    Don't be afraid to rev it either - I've pushed 3500 out in fifth and still accelerating at 155 km/h (but I ran out of road). 4000 rpm is easy for a 300Tdi in 1st, 2nd and 3rd and you can hang on for that in fourth if you're game. The secret is to pick your changes so when you up-a-gear you're in the 2000 rpm area. You'll be amazed at the performance, and the R380 gearbox shifts beautifully fast to let you do it too (it'll even handle a clutchless shift if you're careful).

    If you're worried about reliability doing what I'm saying? I've done 275000 and it's as strong as it was at 140000 (when I bought it).
    Norm

    2011 D4 TDV6 (Audrey)
    99 Defender 130 single cab ute 300Tdi (Mabel)
    99 S1 Disco Tdi (Grumble)
    -ex 97 S1 Disco V8i (Beast)
    -ex 94 Defender Tdi (Antichrist II)
    -ex 98 S1 Disco Tdi
    -ex 78 Strangie (The Bucket)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
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    Clean your intercooler out im happy with mine after the clean
    maybe you want more and if you do go the pump mod and exhaust then you should be happier

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    Sorry im late onto this one...

    in order heres how ID adress it

    1. adjust your driving profile to suit the donk, the TDI 300 likes a few more revs, keep it nearer the middle of the rev range 1700 is where the turbo is just starting to get interested in its job.. If you want more go let the engine wind out to about 28/2900 rpm before shifting so long as your coming off of the clutch in the next gear up with 2000+ rpm on the tacho before planting the boot that will all but cure your lag.

    (Assuming your going to replace the air intake components, and the exhaust and redo the injector pump..)

    2. get the turbo venting. Fit the exhaust that will cleanly flow the gasses required for the power you want to actually get. you wont develop all of this power untill you up the fuel + air going in and this wont cure all of your lag but it will help.

    3. get the engine breathing, fit the air system your going to fit, clean everything, minimise the number of bends in it and maximise the radius of the turns.

    4. Give it something to burn, now that youve got buckets of air going in, and plenty of space for the burnt gasses to go give it all the fuel you dare..

    Nice thing about Turbo diesels you can wind the fuel up, wind the boost up and so long as the engine will handle the increasing pressure and temp you get more power.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    My logic for doing the mods in this order...

    If you do the fuel pump first when you change the air In/exhaust out characteristics of the engines you'll find the pump isnt as well adjusted as it could be...

    If you do the air intake first you wont see much benefit as the turbo will be being choked by the exhaust system so pick out an exhaust system that will deliver what you want then match up the intake or go for a little overkill.

    Youve played with everything just the once and each mod, in sequence will provide some improvement. If you get what you need after the first or second mod, stop there. By chance for once its worked out that the cheapest order of doing the work is also (IMHO) the most effective.

    By minimising the work done the oportunity for murphy to get his hands on your donk are minimised and you dont have to pay to get things re-jigged again and again.

    When it comes to the pump dont skimp give it the whole 9 yards (phasing, balancing and timing) and send the injectors (patterning and crack pressures) along with it no point in having buckets of fuel going in if its all going to one cylinder or if its not being delivered into the combustion chamber in the optimal manner.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 16th October 2006 at 10:35 PM.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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