If it has the upgraded pulleys, as you suggest, then we would do all the seals (crank x2 and cam) plus the idler pulleys. New gasket on the timing housing as well. Pretty much everything replaced apart from the pulleys.
I've just picked up a very neat and tidy 300Tdi Defender. It's an WA VIN so is past the timing belt issue. But it has done 80,000km, is 7 years old and hasn't had a new timing belt so for peace of mind I'm going to replace it.
What else should I also replace whilst the timing belt cover is off? I'm thinking the camshaft oil seal as well.
Last edited by dmdigital; 17th October 2006 at 12:32 PM.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
If it has the upgraded pulleys, as you suggest, then we would do all the seals (crank x2 and cam) plus the idler pulleys. New gasket on the timing housing as well. Pretty much everything replaced apart from the pulleys.
I was wondering about that and didn't know whether the other seals were worht doing too. I suppose it makes sense as it is still preventative maintenance.
Thanks.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
If you have an XA Defender, then it has a Td5 engine.Originally Posted by dm_td5
Well, it did when it left the factory anyway.
Scott
Definately past the timing belt issues then...Originally Posted by Scouse
![]()
OK so the keys on the kyebarod don't always line up with the fnigres and it is a WA VINOriginally Posted by BigJon
![]()
Definitely not a Td5. There's a very slight difference between what's under the bonnet of the Defender and my 03 Disco.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
Well picking up a Defender is a step in the right direction
Ask Dr KIE4 he changed mine in about an hour and half he is a Landrover mechanical demi god.![]()
I stand by my first post then.Originally Posted by dm_td5
![]()
No problem thanks for pointing out the mistake. Looking through the W/S manual etc I think its the best approach. I've also double checked the VIN with the tech bulletin and it's actually at the tail end of the replacement ones, so as it's lasted so long I'm thinking it doesn't need a kit. But I'll see when I open it up.Originally Posted by BigJon
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
These are some of the things you might find:
Idler pulley - notice the damaged seal around the bearing. This one was 235k old.
Tensioner bearing (old style) Ditto - re seal, rough running.
Crank pulley - indentation on keyway
Woodruff key dented
It seems the previous owner of my truck fooled with the timing belt and didn't torque and loctite the outer crank pulley bolt properly. It worked loose and caused both pulleys the flop about, causing the damage you see, and rxxting the keyway in the crank itself. Which really P.M.O at the time I found out about it. (These things happen when you buy at an auction. As it turned out, the cost of repairs when added was still under what I'd pay at a caryard, so I wasn't too unhappy)
In the abbreviated upgrade kit ( without new TC cover ) this is the new tensioner pulley style. If yours has a stud and nut instead of a bolt and washer holding tension, then yours is all good. The idler remains the same
This is the new crank pulley - it now has the flange on it. If you look carefully, you'll see the new o-ring that faces the engine block. It's fiddly to fit - I used some grease to seat it properly.
The new tension for the belt is less than the old style, which apparantly lets the belt live longer.
In relation to the TC cover oil seals, remember that in addition to undoing the timing case bolts to the block you have to lock both injector pump and camshaft( Use drills,wrap electrical tape around the sharp edges) remove both pulleys and unbolt the injector pump from the rear of the tc cover. The injector pump will stay put, but allow a few hours to unbolt it.
ps: When fitting the outer crank oil seal, put some grease on the seal lip and on the crank surface itself, so the seal forms properly and lives longer.
Last edited by langy; 17th October 2006 at 07:00 PM.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks