Ignition Amplifier module

5 years too! I've been told by various auto elecs that when a module plays up the car will never start. Its either good or dead. Not too sure what to think, but I'll get a module and have it fitted and see how I go.
I have the module on the side of the distributor and a 3pin lead coming out of the module into another module that is clamped to an aluminium chassis next to the coil. The question is, which one serves as the ignition module? I'll post a pic of it at some stage but to me it looks a remote mounting kit.

They get dry joints - at the start, mine would not start in temps below zero but would start at higher temperatures - later it also played up at higher temps. The expansion on contraction being on the side of the distributor in a hot engine valley makes the dry joints - so they do not necessarily just die. I went through two in the same process on my disco before I moved my module from the distributor to a cooler spot neat the coil then all was OK.

Garry

Garry,
What was involved in moving the module?

Just extending wires and screwing the module to the inner guard using some thermal paste between the two?

Garrycol, you said you've been through two modules, how long did each one last? Also is there anyway to strip the thing and renew it?? Is soldering out of the question?

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Originally Posted by Utemad

Garry,
What was involved in moving the module?

Just extending wires and screwing the module to the inner guard using some thermal paste between the two?

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Basically yes - I made up an aluminium bracket and also scewed on a heat sink - however one of the connectors (can't remember which one) is not available from auto elects or Jaycar so I had to make one up out of plastibond - worked well though.

The alternative is to get a wiring loom from a wrecker as the later D1s had the ignition module next to the coil.

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JMAN

Garrycol, you said you've been through two modules, how long did each one last? Also is there anyway to strip the thing and renew it?? Is soldering out of the question?

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The original as built into the car from new lasted about 4 years (50,000km) - the second just a bit less - they are sealed so not cost effective to play with - from a landrover aftermarket place they are about $100 and cheaper if you can source one from another car. You just have to remove the retaining screws, unplug it and replace. Space can be tight though.

Garry

thanks mate. I was quoted $220 for one, a Triden?? brand....
Also, if I put a digital multimeter across the terminals in the module, what sort of reading am I after in volts, resistance etc?? There has to be a way in which simply doing this can tell if the module is cactus...

British 4wd in Tas have them for $167 and Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne have them in their current catalogue for $95.

Garry

The module off the side of the dissy has three male connectors, however the connecting plug has two female connectors, leaving the middle male prong contacting plastic only. This lead runs to a remote module off the side of the distributor, mounted on an aluminium frame. The lead contains three wires coloured red blue and white. Is the plug the wrong one due to only having two connecting female terminals?
Also is this module off the side of the coil a remote module and the one off the dissy act only as a dummy?

I am not familiar with what you are describing. The earlier D1 3.9s have a the module that plugs directly into the side of the dizzy and held in place with a few screws - the loom then runs to the coil etc. The later D1s have the module near the coil but I am not sure how the loom plugs into the dizzy - I woulod expect some sort of plug but do not know.

Garry