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Thread: Ignition Amplifier module

  1. #1
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    Question Ignition Amplifier module



    Hi guys, read somewhere once that you can bypass the ignition amplifier module on the v8 3.9's if it isn't working. i.e to get you out of trouble if the car isn't starting and u suspect it is the ignition amplifier module.

    Is this true ? now do u do it, just in case ?

    Matt.

  2. #2
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by matbor

    Hi guys, read somewhere once that you can bypass the ignition amplifier module on the v8 3.9's if it isn't working. i.e to get you out of trouble if the car isn't starting and u suspect it is the ignition amplifier module.

    Is this true ? now do u do it, just in case ?

    Matt.
    I can't see how....in fact short of replacing it.....you won't get the ignition to work at all.

    It's a bit like throwing out a bad set of points and hoping the ignition will still work.

    On the later engines [Thor and also Motronics] there's a limp home mode if things go awry.....but not on yours......sorry

  3. #3
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    No - no ignition module - engine she no go.

    If you still have the ignition module mounted on the distributor look at having it moved to somewhere cool - they do not like the heat.

    Gazzz
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol
    No - no ignition module - engine she no go.

    If you still have the ignition module mounted on the distributor look at having it moved to somewhere cool - they do not like the heat.

    Gazzz
    Mine works fine for now and it mine isn't mounted on the distributor, i think it was the older disco's that had it mounted on the disy.

    Nah just was thinking about it the other and I thought I read somewhere that there was a bypass if it didn't work, oh well, guess not.

    Is there a way of testing them if say your engine doesn't start then and u are troubleshooting ??

  5. #5
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    Found the info on testing the ignition module, in the Haynes manual (that I keep in the car ), lots of steps for testing the ignition system, but this is the amplifier module one :

    Haynes Manual - Page 5B-2-7
    Next switch off the ignition and connect the voltmeter between the battery positive terminal and the coil negative terminal (wire to amplifier module). With the ignition off, zero volts should be obtained; switch the ignition on, and the reading should still be zero. Now crank the engine and look for an increase in voltage. If no increase is noted, this indicates that the amplifier module is not switching.

  6. #6
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    revived thread...

    I conducted this test and with the ignition off, I acquired a result of 12.35v.
    With ignition on the result was 0.21v.

    The Haynes manual says both readings when the ignition on or off should be zero volts. Does this mean my amplifer module is playing up?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMAN View Post
    I conducted this test and with the ignition off, I acquired a result of 12.35v.
    With ignition on the result was 0.21v.

    The Haynes manual says both readings when the ignition on or off should be zero volts. Does this mean my amplifer module is playing up?
    If your car runs OK - then no there is no issue.

    If the car - she no go - then maybe

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
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    I 've had a hard start for some years and its about the only thing in the engine bay I havent replaced...

  9. #9
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    I carry a spare but so far havent needed it- probably because I carry it.

    The remote modules ( Bosch BIM024)are used on lots of fords, mitusbishis, nissans and holdens (I have a list if anyone wants it) and are about $25 from a wrecker.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMAN View Post
    I 've had a hard start for some years and its about the only thing in the engine bay I havent replaced...
    It took me 5 years to diagnose this - they are cheap enough to replace so do it. If yours is located on the distributor then the odds are it has heaps of dry joints.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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