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Thread: $400 for peace of mind?

  1. 26th October 2006, 06:48 PM #1
    zwitter
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    Question $400 for peace of mind?

    OK I know 300Tdi timing belts have been done to death.
    I have searched the forum and read every post that mentioned Timing belts etc. I have read the Technical bullitens i could find. I have read the Difflock instructions, got a collection of tools and made others.

    My question is about the injection pump bracket and cover.

    My VIN ( TA98**** ) suggests that I need the Big kit STC4095 with the belt, gears etc PLUS front cover, injector pump bracket and side cover.

    I bought the STC4096 kit that just has the timing belt and gears because it is much cheaper.

    Do I need the cover? Mine looks OK just covered in plack dust. Was it due to a faulty batch or is it different? I will change the crank seal in the old one.

    What about the injector pump bracket? I have seen the "new" one and it has sliding mounts on two of the bolts? Is it required? Can you mod the old one?

    The difference is about $400 - $500 I could get the bigger kit or cover/bracket separately. What do the experts think???
    Thanks

    James

    I currently have the front off the engine with the timing pins installed. It had 108k on the clock and the original belt and idlers with the wings and 5 mm off the side of the belt converted to dust. The bearing seals in the fixed timing idler were both stuffed.

    I have replaced the crank oil seal and contemplating the cam seal. Swaped the stud for the idler and cleaned it out.
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  2. 26th October 2006, 07:05 PM #2
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    ladas
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    If you can afford it do the full job while you have the front off.

    Ladas
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  3. 26th October 2006, 08:43 PM #3
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    Blknight.aus
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    Ive never done the conversion, Ive timed a few pumps onto the TDI's and the old 2.25 and wouldnt mind seeing the differences in the brackets side by side. IF its to do with the drillings in the support bracket then its just to make "twisting" the pump for timing easier and modding the exisitng bracket shouldnt be a problem if you have access to a good mill.

    If its for strenghtning reasons you might be able to get away with removing the existing bracket and welding supports onto it.
    Dave

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  4. 27th October 2006, 01:06 AM #4
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    langy
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    I'm surprised that a TA has a alignment problem - but having said that, then further information suggests that having the guide rails on the crank pulley and a lower tension on the belt is the cure more than a new timing case assembly or new guide pins. From my point of view (Having done 60k ago what you are doing now) when I hit 300k - another couple of months - I'll crack the cover and inspect the belt. Every 10k I poke about in the front drain hole, and haven't found anything to worry about. You know what happens when your belt hits 100k - so inspect your new one again at 50k. That appears to me to be the better approach than buying a really expensive timing case assembly.

    ps: Loctiting and torquing the pulley bolt properly is really important as are the woodruff keys.
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  5. 27th October 2006, 08:36 AM #5
    llandro
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    When I did my first belt replacement I drilled and tapped for a 3/8"bsp. brass plug in the top l/h of the timing cover. This allows me to check on the actual belt condition from time to time (scuffing edges etc.) Because it is the later build with flanges on the crank pulley, mod. pump support bracket etc. no problems with the belt have been encountered. However I did read that the thin flanges, spot welded to the crank pulley can come off which would then allow the belt to move sideways.
    I mentioned this in a previous post and Camel Landy advised that this was a mod done by L/R uk. with a hose from the diaphragm boost to pressurise the timing case to keep water out. Seems a good idea if doing cross country wading.
    llandro
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  6. 27th October 2006, 07:35 PM #6
    zwitter
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    Angry I found a difference in the covers, dam it!!!

    OK the covers are different in the front crankhaft seal.

    the old one takes a ERR4576 $14
    and the new one takes a ERR7143 is $50

    The new one is thicker and it jfits the cover but jams the crank!

    I am on very close terms with the crank bolt. I know her favorite drink (Loctite 243) and she likes a bit of rough treatment. I have had the timing cover and crank pulley/Bolt on and off more than 8 times today.

    Anyone have a ERR4576 = IN 53313 CFW seal I can get ASAP?
    Or where to get it Saturday in Sydney?

    Copping it from SWMBO

    James

    Also the bolt for the Timing belt tensioner is now a socket head cap screw requiring an 8mm Hex driver to tighten it up.
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  7. 27th October 2006, 11:23 PM #7
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    langy
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    TR spares, Fairford Rd Padstow at the intersection of the M5 (97095611) open until 1pm.

    If all else fails, leave the seal out until you find the right one. Of course don't go near mud until you do
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  8. 28th October 2006, 07:06 PM #8
    zwitter
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    Thanks Langy

    Hi Langy

    Yep that is where i got it from, TR spares,for $6 a lot cheaper than the $54 new style one I had to trash to get it back out of the cover!!!

    had to make a "hold the crank still" tool to get the crank bolt that 80Nm +90deg. Just the belts and fan and shroud to go! just one of 4 special tool jigs i made to do the job.

    At least I wont have to do it again for a while.

    james
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