I'd reckon they are all asleep. :D:D:D
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I'd reckon they are all asleep. :D:D:D
If cost is a criterion, then, if you already have a Holden that does not need work, use it. If your LR 4 cyl. petrol engine needs rebuilding, you will be up for $2000 or more, for a full rebuild; rebore, crank grind, unleaded compatible seats, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Land-lord
If you are doing a re-power and plan to use a Holden, then a red 202 with blue crankshaft (needs machine shop work but any competent engine shop can do this), blue/starfire rods, forged pistons, 2 x 1 3/4" SU's, 186S exhaust headers is the duck's guts combination.
My choice for a re-power is a Chrysler Hemi 6 265/4.3. the block casting is only 1/4" longer than a Holden. It is a lightweight engine that was made using thin wall foundry technology, and is bullet proof. Lots of quick bits available off the shelf & 300+ horses readily available by any competent engine builder if you want to go that high. My choice would be a 265 with Rochester Quadra-jet carb., CM Valiant split exhaust headers, and pre emission controls camshaft. A point distributor from a 215 with an electronic ignition kit wired so the electronics can be swapped over to straight points and coil in the event of an electronic failure. These things will rev like a turbine when correctly built. You can even paint it Holden red and tell everyone it is only a 186 after you have blown them off.
Like you said 60%on 40%off road with a std 2.25 landy engin and a higher raitio high range the little 4 banger will work its bum out moving it ... Is it short or long,how much gear u carry and wether you are guna tow with it all aspects of wat you want to do with it are guna have into play ... With the holden motor in it it wont have to work as hard and will have more grunt even if u only change your high range but thats my opinion and others will disagree or agree it all comes down to personal choice and experience..
try wat like and get your own opinion of things at least if you do all the work yourself you'll get good experience...
cheersnbeers...
chris
nope i was up makin school lunchs and getin kids off to school dady daycare :D :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dickyjoe
When I spoke to Mal (Maxi Drive), he said that he puts the lowest low range he can in his HR t-cases (about 39:1 overall), and lower and the low range gear teeth would want to be where the casing is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Does Maxi do the ashcroft conversion or have they come up with their own? Any info on how they do it, if it's their own?
Simon
Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
More than one way to skin a cat....
If you work it from the gearbox side you can make the input gear a little smaller, the idler a little larger then carry on down the chain.... Ive seen it for a toyo, only heard of it for a landie Id be inclined to believe that you would have longevity issues with the input gear especially if you had anything much tougher than a 2.25 driving it.
What you are talking about is machining a whole new (one-off) gearset which would be about $3000 for 3 gears. And even if there is room to fit the gears in the case (probably not), you would still not be as low as an LT230 or LT95.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Crossy, AFAIK MD made their HR t-case about the same time (or even before) the ashcroft one. Dave and Mal are both good engineers and machinists and always come up with their own ideas - even if a lot of them are similar to each other (never exactly the same).
Agreed all the way. now the really fun bit would be working an lt95 onto a series 2a box...Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Brian,
THe Chrysler Hemi 6 265/4.3 sounds a treat..:D
What series gearbox could handle this unit?