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Thread: Holden 186 into Series i with iia running gear

  1. #1
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    Holden 186 into Series i with iia running gear

    Hi Team!

    I have two(2) options if I want to retain the use of the 186 for my Series 1 1954 project:

    Fnn car basically - 40% off road, 60% on-road..

    1) Use my modified diff (4.3:1) to increase road speed per RPM with a small increase to Low Range

    2) Get Ashcroft transmissions to modify my transfer box to a new high gear ratio gearset by upping the gearing of the high ratio, but leaving the low ratio gearing as standard - for maximum torque to wheels....

    Either way - I would have longer gearing for road, but still low gearing for offroad fun.

    I do not want to go down the OD route either..

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    you forgot your 3rd option...

    get the adjusted high range kit for the transfer case from marks four wheel drives up brissy way or four wheel drives melbourne way...

    better high range and keep your low...

    best of both worlds..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    Great thanks Blknight. You're pretty cool!

    Now what difference is there between option 3 to option 2 - besides the supplier?

  4. #4
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    I still have a fundamental question I need answering..

    If I get the transfer kit conversion - I will still be maxing out torque at low revs - won't I - so I will still be "screaming" on the roads - will I not?

  5. #5
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    nope...

    what changes is the individual gear sets in the transfer case...

    when you select low range (red lever backwards fully) you will be in the landrovers low range which is no different than before.

    when you select high range (red lever forwards) you will be using your modified high range which is different and from memory saves you something like 15% of your engine RPM for any given road speed. so if you were doing 2000 RPM for 100 kph to pick a number at random you should now only be doing about 1700 rpm.


    If you put the red lever in the middle you will be screaming as thats neutral and any forwads motion will be from the propeller effect of the engines fan. To maximise this method of propulsion you should remover your radiator and bonnet.

    Hope that helps...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    If you put the red lever in the middle you will be screaming as thats neutral and any forwads motion will be from the propeller effect of the engines fan. To maximise this method of propulsion you should remover your radiator and bonnet.

    Hope that helps...
    ROFLMAO

  7. #7
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    Blknight-

    Now what difference is there between option 3 to option 2 - besides the supplier?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    when you select low range (red lever backwards fully) you will be in the landrovers low range which is no different than before.
    Not entirely true low range and high range are both changed in the T-case. Only difference is that they try and keep low range about the same.

    I only knew of the Ashcroft and Maxi-Drive versions (sold through FWD in Brisbane, among others). Didn't know Marks did one also.

    What they do is - take a blank T-case, weld up the holes where the intermediate shaft normally sits, and redrill another one, then refit new input, intermediate and high/low gears into the T-case - ALL of which are different to stock.

    AFAIK low range is actually slightly higher (39:1 instead of 40:1 or thereabouts) in the MD case - not sure about ashcroft.

  9. #9
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    If I reduce my LR diff down to 3.54:1 and alter the high range in the transfer case - is this the best scenario?

  10. #10
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    Land-lord

    A question, why don't you wanna go the OD way?

    Diffs will change the gearing on ALL gears - low and high - all the time
    TC conversions will change only the high - all the time
    OD will do nothing unless YOU want it to

    I went the OD way on the old Series II diesel. Apart from the screaming (I have a Banshee... er Fairey OD) it works a treat. When I click my red slippers and return to Oz I shall invest into the Canadian Roverdrive. I like the fact that everything stays standard and the OD is a bolt-on. If it dies, I carry the original gear and palate with me. If the TC dies, the OD can be moved to a new one... I guess my reasoning was that:
    a) the diesel works well with the current gearing
    b) OD gives you the choice of on/off plus splitting gears (3, 3+OD, 4, 4+OD)
    c) it is easier to find / get / beg for standard TC parts if you're stuck past the black stump and a bit to the left

    ... but you have the old Holden donk in yours so you don't need to worry about gearing so much. By far the easiest is diffs - get the 3.54 and see how you go. If you don't like it you can swap back...

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