Thread: Holden 186 into Series i with iia running gear

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Not entirely true low range and high range are both changed in the T-case. Only difference is that they try and keep low range about the same.

I only knew of the Ashcroft and Maxi-Drive versions (sold through FWD in Brisbane, among others). Didn't know Marks did one also.

What they do is - take a blank T-case, weld up the holes where the intermediate shaft normally sits, and redrill another one, then refit new input, intermediate and high/low gears into the T-case - ALL of which are different to stock.

AFAIK low range is actually slightly higher (39:1 instead of 40:1 or thereabouts) in the MD case - not sure about ashcroft.

yep Marks do the same but I didnt want to get too far into the nitty gritty of what is done more the end effect and I do know of a couple of places that will cut you replacement gear sets to fit into the rover tcase that get you higher high and a lower low...

Originally Posted by Land-lord

If I reduce my LR diff down to 3.54:1 and alter the high range in the transfer case - is this the best scenario?

3.54 diffs into series will lower your engin speed on road will also lower your gearbox speed so on road at say 90 to 110 will be possable to talk to the passenger without having to scream over the gearbox noise cause it wont be spining as quick so will make less noise and it wont have to work as hard and will last longer .. my old man once put a 253 holden in a s2a with the std non syncro 2a box he made the adaptor up preety much the same as the holden 6 adaptor and ran custom built diffs this was in 1972 he used 3.54 crownwheel and pinion out of rover 90 car diffs which are the same as the rangie diffs but the centerhousing is different he ground the landy centerhousings to fit the modded center he used the crownwheel and pinion and fitted them to the landy center and whalah he had 3.54 diffs now days its possable just to bolt in rangie centers back then it was nearly imposable to get a rangie let alone a diff center hence the custom diffs he had the landy in service till he brought a s3 lwb in 1979 and swaped the engin outa the swb2a to it and it was in service till 1987 with 253 and his modded diffs on road it was great exelent in the bush in high range low range was good but could have been lower by this timeit was running the s3 box and had the salsbury removed in went the modded diff outa the 2a sotheres plenty of options if iwas to goto a series i would use the non syncro box cause its stronger and would source lower gear set for the tranfer and run rangie centers but thats my opinion dad wasent fussed about loosing low range he mainly used the truck on the beach and has allways said only c%^&heads use low range on the beach low was allways the last resort 4 him i think so theres sumthing to ponder best of luck


cheersnbeers 4 now


chris....

Lokka, that's one long sentence....

Land-lord,

Originally the SII had a 2 1/4 petrol in it - early model. When it came to the end of it's life (crank needed rework etc) I went through all the choices and settled for the 2 1/4 diesel. I like the fact that the diesel doesn't run on Lucas electrics. I dismissed most other options - Holden, newer LR 2 1/4, V8's ... liked the idea of a diesel for off-road work: higher torque and lower revs ... ISUZU diesels seemed too heavy for the shorty...

(I did have a SI 1957 - my first Landy and it did have the 2L petrol engine. Wasn't bad until it died and combined with cancer in the chassis meant end of it's useful life... )

It is basically your choice of what you want from your Landie. If you want to keep it original, stay with the SI engine. If you want more power and don't care about keeping it "Land Rover", there are numerous engine options all or most of which will require a bit of work. Then you have the option of petrol or diesel...

Once you decide what you want from the Landie (how you want to use it, where, who and what to carry etc) and the engine you choose it will determine what mods you can do to the rest of the driveline. Big powerful diesels or V8's and Holdens will pull a Series Landie with 3.54 Diffs. Anywhere. 2 1/4 LR diesel will not. Not up hill full of gear in the middle of Cape Tribulation. So, for my personal application an OD was the best choice. I normally use it like a 5th gear - that's what it is. 1-2-3-4-OD. Adds extra lever to the 3 you already have... and confuses non-Landy mechanics

You have the luxury of a bare chassis - like a clean canvas. Most engine choices will require either a change of bell-housing or engine mounts or both, in addition to exhaust pipe and intake and cooling hoses... then you build the rest on top.

I don't think anyone can tell you what YOU want, but once YOU decide I am sure there will be plenty of help to get you there. Hope this help

THanks again.

You all know your landies...

Not worried about donk being non-original..

That's why I am exploring all of my options. Interesting to learn all this stuff!

if you've already got the holden conversion - I'd ditch the 186 and source a blue 202. Much better engine, they sell for around $100 for a good condition stocker.

Originally Posted by crossy

if you've already got the holden conversion - I'd ditch the 186 and source a blue 202. Much better engine, they sell for around $100 for a good condition stocker.

ditch the most reliable holden 6 ever for a f$%kn blue motor ya gota b joking man the only good thing you could with the blue motor is take the head off it cause its a 12 port jobie then use the rest of the blue motor as a f^&kn morring to tie your boat up to .. the 186 is far more reliable than any 202 and they will use less juice 202 have weak bottom ends and are renound for breaking pistons either be it red blue or black if its 202 its poo and i think im not alone on this one lets see wat feedback u get on this statement ... just rember 202 rhymes with poo cause there crap...
cheersnbeers


chris

Sorry but all old wifes tales

Only the early 202's lost piston tops, any after market piston - no problem. Later stock pistons were renowned for cracking skirts, but there aint too many holden six's running factory pistons any more. Blue six = fully counterweighted cranks with larger journels, starfire rods (xu1) with larger rod bolts (308 size), a MUCH stronger bottom end. More torque down low, larger clutch, 10 x better head.

Only the 186"s" had a stronger crank as it was a forged steel job, other than that - it's 202 all the way. oh yeah check out the bathurst results, 186 = looser 202 = WINNER.

(**** I can't believe I'm up in the middle of the night argueing about the merrits of holden 6's on a landie forum. )

Originally Posted by crossy

(**** I can't believe I'm up in the middle of the night argueing about the merrits of holden 6's on a landie forum. )

It's almost end of my office day here ;-)