Thread: Gaskets or silicone?

Whenever we reseal sumps, diffs, etc we use sealant alone, no gaskets unless specified by LR.

Gasket the sump and goo the transfer inspection cover

There is a sump gasket specified

Part No. 602087

Originally Posted by ladas

There is a sump gasket specified

Part No. 602087

Thanks for the speedy reply guys.

My RAVE CD has the following when doing the sump gasket:

OIL SUMP
Service repair no - 12.60.44
Remove
1. Drain engine oil See SECTION 10,
Maintenance, Under Vehicle Maintenance
2. Fit drain plug. Tighten to 40 Nm.
3. If fitted, disconnect low oil level sensor multiplug.
4. Remove bolt securing dipstick tube to rocker
cover.
5. Working form the centre outwards, progressively
loosen and remove 17 bolts securing sump.
Remove sump.
6. Remove all traces of sealant from mating
surfaces of sump, cylinder block and front cover,
using a suitable solvent or plastic scraper.
7. Degrease mating surfaces of sump, cylinder
block and front cover.
Refit
8. Apply RTV Hylosil White sealant to mating
surface of sump.
9. Position sump, tighten bolts finger tight.
10. Tighten bolts progressively in sequence shown.
Tighten to 18 Nm.
11. Fit bolt securing dipstick tube to rocker cover.
12. If fitted, connect low oil level sensor multiplug.

Since I have a cork gasket for the engine sump I'll use that and silicone the transfer plate then.

I should have done this last month when I drained and replaced all the fluids

I might wait another 8500kms and do it all again with new oils and seals. Assuming the oil stays in there that long

Originally Posted by ladas

There is a sump gasket specified

Part No. 602087

For some reason a sump gasket exists, but LR themselves DON'T USE IT.

Sealant all the way, only use a gasket if it is needed for clearance or you will need to remove the part regularly.

Just for updating this thread and to give some info to someone who started a new thread which was linked to this one. Whoever it was wanted to know what was involved in the sump removal/refit that wasn't mentioned in the manual.

To remove the sump I needed to remove all the sump bolts but not the dipstick tube bolt. The dipstick tube went through the block and then into the sump so it stayed with the block not the sump.
To get to the two sump bolts at the very back I had to remove the inspection cover on the front of the gearbox. My sockets were too big to fit in the gap between the cover and the sump. Removing and refitting the inspection cover was the hardest part of the job. It was a right PITA.
To remove the sump from the vehicle once it was unbolted I jacked the car up under the bullbar and slipped the sump out the back. This is with a 2in lift so can't comment on if it would work with a standard height vehicle. My front wheels never left the ground though.
I then cleaned up the sump inside (surprisingly clean to start with) and out and removed all the white goo. You could see that the seal was leaking most of the way around. Oil covering most of the mating surface.
I used my cork gasket to seal the sump. Only because I had it. Would have used the sealant otherwise.

All this took about 6 hours of slowly plugging away with ample breaks. Took much longer than anticipated but I did do it on my back in the carpark with the vehicle on the ground. I'll remember my stands next time.

This was for a 3.9 V8 with R380 gearbox.

It was me enquiring about this & mainly regarding the possible need to remove steering rods etc. Sounds like that's a no.

So, no more leaks showing then?

Thanks for the update.