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Thread: Removing Side Steps - DIIa

  1. #1
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    Removing Side Steps - DIIa

    Hi folks,

    Ever had one of those jobs that you thought was going to be easy, and then half way through..........

    I was at my mates place on Friday using his hoist for a quick check over and what I thought would be the easy removal of the factory-fitted side steps (aka running boards) from my Disco 2a (2003 model). However it doesn't look as easy as i thought! Removing the steps is easy, but to remove the brackets that attached the steps to the chassis (which I need to do to get ground-clearance back) it looks like I need to remove 4 bolts (2 per side) that appear to go through the body mounts!

    Has anybody removed these kind of steps and brackets before, and if so, what do you replace these bolts with? It appears that, if I have to replace these bolts, I'll need to get to them through the floor, which looks like hard work!

    Advice gratefully received as always!!

    Thanks,

    Greg

  2. #2
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    a quick squizz at the RAVE cd doesnt show any "inside" shots, so I think the long hex bolt just screws in,,
    the nut that holds the step bracket on is a M10
    should be able to figure the bolt size out from that?
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  3. #3
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    Ever wished you'd actually taken a spanner to the job before posting on the forum?

    For those interested, it is actually really simple to remove the factory-fit side steps!

    I hadn't realised that the "bolts" that went through the outriggers were actually extension nuts and the whole removal process was actually pretty easy...

    I can see how you run the risk of shearing the bolts that go through the body mounts, but found a few sharp taps with a hammer un-siezed the extension nuts and they came off really easily.

    The whole process is pretty simple, takes about 30 minutes, and really helps ground clearance and ramp-over angles!

  4. #4
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    What are you going to do with the side steps you have removed ?

  5. #5
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    Hi Ladas,

    I'm going to sell them if you're interested?

    They are in great condition, no scrapes, dents bends or otherwise, and I've kept all the fittings (even the little wheel-arch extensions if you've got the flared arches!)

    RRP new they're $900, but I'd be looking to get $450 for these.

    Give me a call on 0407 950 351 if you're interested...

    Greg

  6. #6
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    dmdigital is offline OldBushie Vendor

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    The bolts I think you are referring to are a 97mm and a 83mm hex extension bolt. They are torqued to between 40-50Nm and replace the nyloc nuts on the bolts they attach to.
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  7. #7
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    The factory sidestepd on my 99 disco2 dont actually impeed the ramp over angles at all,the brackets front and back are close enough to the wheels to be well out of the way,the plastic sills are lower so 1st in line for a hitout.The sidesteps are weak in that if you hit anything solid you can bend them up enough to damage the doors or stop them opening at least.
    I built my own "rock sliders" to replace those plastic sills that are just waiting to allow damage to occur.When I made the sliders I re-enforced the factory sidesteps so they wont bend,I can now use a hi lift jack on them if need be.
    Have a look in the "tutorials" forum to see what I did.
    Andrew
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  8. #8
    JES Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy
    Have a look in the "tutorials" forum to see what I did.
    Andrew
    Can't find it Andrew, do you have a link?
    John

  9. #9
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    Hi JES
    I just checked,it appears to have vanished,perhaps one of the moderators can help out.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy
    The factory sidestepd on my 99 disco2 dont actually impeed the ramp over angles at all,the brackets front and back are close enough to the wheels to be well out of the way,the plastic sills are lower so 1st in line for a hitout.The sidesteps are weak in that if you hit anything solid you can bend them up enough to damage the doors or stop them opening at least.
    I built my own "rock sliders" to replace those plastic sills that are just waiting to allow damage to occur.When I made the sliders I re-enforced the factory sidesteps so they wont bend,I can now use a hi lift jack on them if need be.
    Have a look in the "tutorials" forum to see what I did.
    Andrew
    Hi Andrew,

    I think yours must be different to my ones then. the ones I took off are the "running board" style of steps, which are rubber-topped and match up with the flared wheel arches. They sat a good inch or so below the sill, with a rubber flange on the inboard side that met up with the plastic sill.

    Agree with your point about better protection though, and will be investing in a set of sliders soon enough!

    Cheers,

    Greg

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