i was having similar problems bu not anymore:
i gave it 2 full tanks with injector cleaner {tad better}
took it M&R at Redcliffe , they replaced the vacuum unit on the dizzy {shagged} and cleaned the stepper motor, said it was all gummed up, reset base idle and general cleanup of all the lines :
runs sweet , idles great now , no hunting or stalling , and my fuel economy has improved dramatically.
Fossicker
Ive done all that with the advance unit and cleaned the stepper motor, but I cant set base idle low enoughbase idle at its lowest point is around 700RPM.
Does anyone know what could cause this???
Also when Im idling for a while like at the lights I have noticed that she has rough spots in the idle pattern.
Me dont know anymore
RoverLord
1. the hotwire sensor is a part of the MAF, theres not a lot you can do to work on it and they are fairly robust...
for the idle probelm... 700rpm sounds about right for the v8 especially if its got an auto behind it.
it could also be
too much advance,(vac unit problem)
too much fuel for many reasons (regulator stuck in closed pos)
throttle plate not closing properly
rough spots in the idel pattern to me would lean towards either a couple of dying leads/plugs or dirty injectors. try the injector cleaner see what happens
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Cynical Moi?
Bully, did you completely block the bypass hose when you tried?
For the manual box you should be able to get down to 525 +/- 25 rpm
Fossicker
Yeah took the hose off and pluged both ends.
Oh mines a auto
Cynical Moi?
Excuse me if you know all this stuff.
The WS Manual gives the BASE IDLE as 525 +/- 25rpm. The hose must be sealed 100% from any intake leaks. Don't ask)
Your Auto(AC off) is 600 +/- 25 rpm.
I did find that the in vehicle tacho read a bit high as well, by apx. 25 rpm.
I have been down this route & when I replaced the IAC valve, it gave instructions for adjusting the initial length of the piston. Too long, & it can be stuffed up when it's screwed in.
Cynical Moi?
28mm from the gasket seat at the end of the thread to the tip of the cone. If it's not, take the pressure off the spring & turn the cone (threaded) to get this dimension. Reseat the spring back to original.
A few drops of light oil on the thread could help it's operation.
I have also replaced the Vacuum Advance (leaking) which improved the idle & recently a set of Ignition Leads from Alan at British 4WD.
Seems to idle nicely now, but I will always toss some injector cleaner in every 6 months.
Time will tell whether it is 100% right.
Last edited by 4bee; 6th December 2006 at 11:18 AM.
Fossicker
No problem mate,
You can never have to much information on this topic(you can have to much on other topics)
IAC valve? which one is this?
The screw for the base idle? If so I have no spring in mine
Fossicker
Can anyone tell me where I can get a workshop manual on disc for my LR?
Cynical Moi?
Idle Air Control Valve or Stepper Motor. Same thing.
If you remove the stepper & have a look at the pintle, there is a spring between the cone & the body. That one.
If it's crappy when you remove it, give it a good clean with Throttle Body Cleaner.
***** NB. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THIS WHEN REFITTING OR YOU MAY BUST THE BODY. 13 ft/lbs is the recommended torque.
** Not spring in base idle.
For CD, check Incisor's shop here.
Last edited by 4bee; 6th December 2006 at 01:15 PM.
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