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Thread: Poor Idle When Warm

  1. 10th December 2006, 06:29 PM #21
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    Bully
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    Thought I had better let you other people know

    I found part of the idle problem with my LR(i say part find because I wont know if I have found the complete problem until I go for a long drive)
    The temp plug is cracked and wont stay on properly and causing my idle problem.
    I have done a .10c repair on it by taking the plug of and wrapping thread tape around it and letting a little hang over the bottom edge so when I put it back on the tape folds on to the inside to make a tighter fit.

    Seems to have worked so far.

    My next question is , is it hard to change the plug and will I need any special crimping tools to do it?

    Any advise is great

    Cheers
    Bulli
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  2. 10th December 2006, 07:15 PM #22
    PhilipA
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    Which temp plug. the one wire one on the front of the manifold ONLY runs the temp gauge.
    The one on front right top of the manifold near the thermostat has an injector type plug with 2 wires. It is that one which tells the injection ECU the engine temp.
    Regards Philip A
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  3. 10th December 2006, 07:15 PM #23
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    4bee
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    Do you mean the ECU thermostat on the sort of front LH head, on top? Bastard of a thing to get to? That one?

    Not sure if the other end of that cable doesn't have a plug on it at the main loom??????? If so a new short cable would be the answer.

    If not, I don't know.


    What colour wires?

    Engine Coolant GAUGE: 1 wire Green/Blue.

    Engine coolant Temp Sensor: 2 wires, Green/Blue & Red/Black.

    Condenser fan : 2 wires, Black/Purple & Black.
    Last edited by 4bee; 10th December 2006 at 07:26 PM.
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  4. 10th December 2006, 11:17 PM #24
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    Its the wire with 2 wires in it the ECU one.
    Ill have a look and see if there is a plug at the other end,Didnt think to check that
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  5. 11th December 2006, 11:25 AM #25
    byron
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA
    Which temp plug. the one wire one on the front of the manifold ONLY runs the temp gauge.
    The one on front right top of the manifold near the thermostat has an injector type plug with 2 wires. It is that one which tells the injection ECU the engine temp.
    Regards Philip A
    There's another temperature sensor plug also, but it's located in the fuel rail [it reads fuel temp] so probably not the one being asked about.
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  6. 11th December 2006, 11:50 AM #26
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    ...and I'll jump on the bandwagon too!
    I've just about given up on my '97; I've done the stepper, the MAF and all the electrics from dizzy cap & button to plugs via leads and STILL no difference
    I don't get it...behaves on gas but surges and stalls on petrol, even in 'D'! What can stall an auto?
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  7. 11th December 2006, 12:37 PM #27
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    4bee
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    Bully, when I had a look at mine this morning I remembered that mine had also busted a few months ago. It struck me then it seemed a ****y design.

    Somehow I got it back together, but I can't recall what I did & I sure ain't game to pull it off to have a shufti.
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  8. 17th December 2006, 08:36 PM #28
    marzzzzzz Guest
    i found the fault just havent been online to post outcome.

    yes it is a 3.9..

    problem was a dry join on the stepper.. unplugged wd and replugged issue went away.

    thanks for all the info guys.

    cheers.
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  9. 17th December 2006, 09:40 PM #29
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    I have to ask

    What do u mean by dry join?

    A dirty connection?

    Me = n00b

    sorry , I have to ask
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  10. 17th December 2006, 10:23 PM #30
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    100I
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    Aha I'm not alone I too have been battling with this same problem. Cleaned everything out with carb cleaner and including WD40 in the TPS pot (won't fix a worn wiper pot long term but will improve it long enough to discount it). Idle has always been a bit erratic, but since bumping the timing up for gas (14) it has raced to 1500 on startup then dropped to 500 then with a bit of wavering it settles on 700. This weekend after reading RAVE again.. again.. again.. it dawned on me whats going on. As the stepper motor is wound to run in both directions (controlled by the ECU) it must start in a nuetral position each time then takes a second for the ECU to catch up. So I have bit by bit adjusted the IAC valve tip out to close the initial air gap till it seems pretty good now. Not that I condone this behaviour - I see JC has warned it is dicing with danger - but after battling for so long with it I think I'm onto it. Have only started/stopped the engine in the garage & driven it once this afternoon so need to try more cold & hot starts, but I've either cracked it or I'm full of it
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