Thread: Lt77/230transfer Removal

Hi Yer Chriss

Yer mate the T/Case comes off easy enough in the car lot loghter to hual around as well

Re the Holly you need to get two extended fulets an screw them in will fix the up hill down hill problem at least it did on mine

Tony

Originally Posted by tony

Hi Yer Chriss

Yer mate the T/Case comes off easy enough in the car lot loghter to hual around as well

Re the Holly you need to get two extended fulets an screw them in will fix the up hill down hill problem at least it did on mine

Tony

Thanx tony will be removing t/case to find my porblem on wed and will go c a performance place up ere prob pit crew and find out bout these flutes cause i want to put a holley on the lpg truck and remove the cd's so i can get it to perform on lpg also were do these so called flutes go ?? im asumeing in the float bowl or in the metering block also what size carb did u use on your veh im told a 465 4barrel vac secondry holley would be the go as they were the go 4 the 253 holden im a true belever of the holley ive had em on a few v8's both mild and wild and have had a good run up till now so im keen to try fix it once again thanx mate
cheers

chris

yep, but do yourself a favor either get a pair of welders gloves to pull it out with, or wrap a strap around it and lift it down with that, theres some nasty sharp edges and points to cut your fingers open on. I dont know about others, but If im pulling it for rebuild I like to drop the bottom off the casing and pull the intermediate gears out first.

Remove the entire handbrake drum and backing plate assembly before you drop the transfer box. It will save you quite afew kilos to lift, as well as give you more room to move it all back before it fouls on the crossmember.

Also, when putting the transfer box back in, leave the input gear out altogether until the box is bolted back up. That way you wont have to fiddle about trying to get the splines to engage properly whilst lifting it in. Less chance of buggering up the seal when sliding it over the gearbox mainshaft.

Paul

Originally Posted by Defender200Tdi

Remove the entire handbrake drum and backing plate assembly before you drop the transfer box. It will save you quite afew kilos to lift, as well as give you more room to move it all back before it fouls on the crossmember.

Also, when putting the transfer box back in, leave the input gear out altogether until the box is bolted back up. That way you wont have to fiddle about trying to get the splines to engage properly whilst lifting it in. Less chance of buggering up the seal when sliding it over the gearbox mainshaft.

Paul

Great advice mate id have just gone and pulled the whole shebang out in one go thanks ..
As for the input gear is it just a simple slip in through the back cover an replace the nut and other bits ???????

cheers

chris

In the image below, you'll need to remove the ring of 5 bolts & 1 stud (14) to get the PTO Cover (13) off, and then 2 screws (15) to remove the bearing housing (9) before you can get the input gear (6) out (it will just wiggle out eventually). After you put the Transfer Box back in you can slide the input gear back in, reinstall the bearing housing and the PTO cover, and you're done!

Note you should use new gasket (8) only if there was one already there, and silicone only if there wasn't a gasket. This is necessary to get the pre-load correct on the bearing. The other gasket under the PTO cover (12) you can pretty much please yourself whether you replace it or use silicone or both (I use both).




Paul