4-bolt PAS Box - DIY rebuild???

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27th November 2006, 06:48 PM
rick130

Quote:

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I assume he meant a dial gauge - used to measure end-float/run-out on things that rotate.

What you are talking about is a spring balance - to measure torque/preload. I have always used a fishing scale and string as well...

naa, it'd be a dial type tension wrench. Most of us use a deflecting beam type for tensioning bolts, a dial type is more accurate and a squillion $ more expensive.
27th November 2006, 09:12 PM
Rovernaut

If the bottom shaft is worn then it will leak again after you 're seal'.
To get the pitman arm off use a proper puller. I bough one of those Supa crap auto pitman arm pullers and it just snapped.
I hire one from a tool shop. ( identical in design to the SCA one, but stronger) and it popped of easily.
27th November 2006, 09:17 PM
tombraider

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephen

I did the seals only on my box, was pretty easy considering I had no idea what I was doing. Below are the seals I used.

The input shaft seal is a NAK TC 22 32 6 it is a double lip seal compared to the standard single, $3.30 which I got from a bearing place.

The Pitman seal I got from a Hydraulic place, Hallite in Seven Hills, it is a Hydraulic seal it is Blue (Hythane) $10.65. Code 4502701 Description SI 1250 1750 0250 Type 601 1.1/4"x1.3/4" Hythane U-Ring

When you go to Hallite, ask for Roy Siquera....

Tell him you want the "Mike Hayes" discount (that your a friend of mine).

That should drop the price on the 601 U-ring substantially.
28th November 2006, 12:50 PM
isuzurover

Quote:

Originally Posted by tombraider

When you go to Hallite, ask for Roy Siquera....

Tell him you want the "Mike Hayes" discount (that your a friend of mine).

That should drop the price on the 601 U-ring substantially.

Is this discount only valid in South OZ?
28th November 2006, 03:00 PM
Dinty

G'day All, Well I've just joined the ranks of needing PAS rebuild, I had mine up to Modern Motors Dungog this morning thinking it was the seal in the bottom (mind you though it was rebuilt approx 6/7 years ago at a motza cost) only to find out that the housing is cracked and that is where the leak is, this only happens when on full R/L lock it pizzes out, so I'm on the hunt for a 4 bolt box as well cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS Yes it was.:mad:
28th November 2006, 04:50 PM
JDNSW

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All, Well I've just joined the ranks of needing PAS rebuild, I had mine up to Modern Motors Dungog this morning thinking it was the seal in the bottom (mind you though it was rebuilt approx 6/7 years ago at a motza cost) only to find out that the housing is cracked and that is where the leak is, this only happens when on full R/L lock it pizzes out, so I'm on the hunt for a 4 bolt box as well cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS Yes it was.:mad:

I don't think you need a rebuild - I think you need a new box by the sounds. All four x 4 spares were offereing new boxes for $1200 at the Landrover Expo earlier this year, so they might be worth a call.

John
28th November 2006, 04:55 PM
isuzurover

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I don't think you need a rebuild - I think you need a new box by the sounds. All four x 4 spares were offereing new boxes for $1200 at the Landrover Expo earlier this year, so they might be worth a call.

John

Or but a 2nd hand box with a good case and rebuild it... That is a strange failure...
28th November 2006, 04:56 PM
RobHay

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick130

naa, it'd be a dial type tension wrench. Most of us use a deflecting beam type for tensioning bolts, a dial type is more accurate and a squillion $ more expensive.

Ohhhhhh! Just remembered.........I've got one of those.....last seen 5 years ago in my son-in-laws tool box........have to get it back off the borrowing B%$#@%$#d:D
28th November 2006, 05:26 PM
isuzurover

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick130

naa, it'd be a dial type tension wrench. Most of us use a deflecting beam type for tensioning bolts, a dial type is more accurate and a squillion $ more expensive.

So one of these???
http://www.timgilles.com/photogaller...ewrenchdia.jpg

I assume this is to check force required to rotate the shaft? (really must dig manual out of box to see what is involved). Why can't you just use the spring balance method?
28th November 2006, 05:31 PM
Blknight.aus

in its simplest form it is a lever with a spring gauge.

The important part of it being that it can read torque while in motion. (think ultra light weight dyno) whereas a normal torque wrench is only really good for static bolts.

you can, in a pinch also use a deflecting bar type torque wrench if it has the appropriate scale and has a deflection scale like an old scale as apposed to the little sliding wedge.

If the housing is cracked turf it.. You MIGHT be able to get it welded but then you have to worry about distortion and weak points in the weld.

(Edit adition) one of them up ^ there is exaclty it, measure the preload on the shaft by using that ^ to turn it and get the right torque

and yes you can just use a sprong balance on a wheel or lever.

basic formula being distance in inchesx pounds of force= inchlbs of torque...

12inlbs=1ftlb

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