Thread: Salisbury Pinion Nut

i used a rattle gun to get it of and backed the air off to do it up, 3 months on no problems

don't forget to mark the nut, flange and housing prior to removal so that you know how to retighten

if only i could stop the t-case output leaking

I just did my pinion seal man they call them jesus nuts and i know why after doing mine

i put bricks in the front and rear of the rear tyres and used my 12" breaker bar and put my foot agaisnt the chassis rail

i did the reverse to do it up

and do as weeds said mark the nut and the flange and pinion with a paint pen and do them up exactly to what they were

there is a crush spacer in there and if you do it up to tight you can crush it and then your up for $$$$$$$$

take care dont rush a simple job

When I haven't had access to a rattle gun, I have used the following method (sucessfully):

A long breaker bar with a (1" drive) socket engaged firmly on the nut - the end of the breaker bar resting against the concrete slab.
Engage low range
drive (very slowly) until you hear/feel that the nut has loosened.

heat will also help but dont go too much. just enough, I too have used the breaker bar strapped against the chassis rail and drive it off, just be sure to check the direction of rotation before moving.

have a look at www.discoweb.org in the 'Tech section' 'Roto flex to uni conversion', there is a pic in the tutorial on bracing the flange whilst you undo /retorque it.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The flange brace on discoweb looks like a good idea.