Have you check the pullys, maybe one of them is loose or has a bearing going.
Given the mud you subject the DII too, could be worth looking into
or it could be the belt have you checked for any faults in the belt itself.
Baz.
I shredded a couple of belt recently due to the tensioning pulley seizing. ll fixed now but I can't get the new belt to stop squealing. It only happens when the engine is cold and goes very soon after driving. Literally if I rev the enging a couple of times (valve limiter at 4700??) it goes away until I park for a few hours. Anyone got any suggestions? Ive tried for antislip spray but all that does is get everything sticky.
Have you check the pullys, maybe one of them is loose or has a bearing going.
Given the mud you subject the DII too, could be worth looking into
or it could be the belt have you checked for any faults in the belt itself.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
And if you are changing bearings in your tensioners always ask the supplier for "C3" rated bearings so much better for the higher speed & heat than standard "C2.5".
i recently had the same problem.found it to be the aftermarket belt the i replaced the genuine with.since refitting the genuine belt i have had no more problems.noticed the gen belt has a gripping back surface and the aftermarket one is smooth.?
1961 series 2 swb
1978 series 3 ex army gs
2001 series 2 discovery td5
2015 tdv6 3.0 d4
1990 perentie gs cargo with winch.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						My smooth-backed non-geniune TD5 (with ACE) belt doesn't make any noise.
I have a UK sourced belt that is smooth on the back face, but the belt slips on the A/C clutch, whihc is the inner face. If I start without the A/C runnng then put it on a minute after starting then the noise does not happen.
Where I shredded the original belt (Ensay in the middle of Vic....nowhere) I was lucky the recovery guy had some spare parts (my idler pulley had totally siezed and started to disintegrate, jammed solid) and one of those was a new idler pulley for a Ford. It was the same size in just about all aspects, very slightly larger in diameter (about 1mm). The bearing is a fully sealed unit (rubber) as opposed to the steel shield unit fitted as standard. In both designs the bearing is non repalceable. Other than that there is no difference.
One of the thoughts I have is that the auto tensioner is probably suffering from the same mud problems that the rest of the car is. It may not be giving enough tension. I will have to have a closer look, but that aint easy. You cant even see the bloody thing from any angle. I will have to remove half the engine bay to get into it!
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Just by coincidence, its not a broken exhaust stud. It will make the same noise/symptoms?
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