Thread for LT230 H/L/CDL Knob

[isuzurover]

Cheers mate - I had to get used to the DIN system when I worked in Germany - in most cases ISO copied DIN, but I could never get my head around the DIN system for metal (steel) properties...

Can you PM me a price for LR TRE thread taps - I think they are 11/16??? L&R hand of course. Also prices on NPT and BSP(T) taps would be great too.

[Bigbjorn]

Just for the information of the non fitters & turners who frequent this site, the tapping drill size for all metric threads is Diameter minus Pitch. This gives approx. 75% thread depth. The strength of a screw thread is in the root, not the crest. 75% thread depth give 95% strength, takes much less power to tap, less tap wear, and breaks fewer taps.

The clearance drill for the threaded section of commercial fasteners is generally the nominal diameter as commercial fasteners are made a little undersize. Mic. a few and you will see what I mean. The unthreaded portion of shank of a bolt (as against a cap screw) may be slighter larger than the threaded section.

For the record, the thread on the shift lever is M10 x 1.5.

[Bush65]

I have an R380 from a disco and t/case from a TD5 defender in the rangie at the moment.

The H/L selector is different to the earlier LT77/LT230, but the thread may be the same. If so, it is M10 x 1.5.

[ladas]

Just for the information of the non fitters & turners who frequent this site, the tapping drill size for all metric threads is Diameter minus Pitch. This gives approx. 75% thread depth. The strength of a screw thread is in the root, not the crest. 75% thread depth give 95% strength, takes much less power to tap, less tap wear, and breaks fewer taps.

The clearance drill for the threaded section of commercial fasteners is generally the nominal diameter as commercial fasteners are made a little undersize. Mic. a few and you will see what I mean. The unthreaded portion of shank of a bolt (as against a cap screw) may be slighter larger than the threaded section.

For the record, the thread on the shift lever is M10 x 1.5.

Okay for all the non fitters and turners, could you give us the same information - but in terms a moron like me can understand

Really like to understand this

[byron]

Just for the information of the non fitters & turners who frequent this site, the tapping drill size for all metric threads is Diameter minus Pitch. This gives approx. 75% thread depth. The strength of a screw thread is in the root, not the crest. 75% thread depth give 95% strength, takes much less power to tap, less tap wear, and breaks fewer taps.

The clearance drill for the threaded section of commercial fasteners is generally the nominal diameter as commercial fasteners are made a little undersize. Mic. a few and you will see what I mean. The unthreaded portion of shank of a bolt (as against a cap screw) may be slighter larger than the threaded section.

For the record, the thread on the shift lever is M10 x 1.5.

Just by the by, do you do any cold rolling of threads?

Sorry to introduce yet more complexity into the mix .......but it's amazingly interesting what people on here do/know about/work in /etc...... and it would be good to know someone who could do some cold roll forming next time I might need some.

[Bigbjorn]

Just by the by, do you do any cold rolling of threads?

Sorry to introduce yet more complexity into the mix .......but it's amazingly interesting what people on here do/know about/work in /etc...... and it would be good to know someone who could do some cold roll forming next time I might need some.

No, I no longer do any machining, except my own or mates. I sell machine shop supplies, hobby and model engineers supplies, mechanical workshop & restoration supplies. I cater to the motor & machinery hobbies. I sell at major swap meets within about 200k's of Brisbane, by telephone and mail order,and to personal callers. The greater part of my hobby business is special, obsolete, hard to find, and "no longer available" taps and dies.

I assume you are talking rolling external threads. You can get "Threadflo" fluteless taps for forming internal threads by displacing metal, not cutting it. Rolling external threads is really the job of a specialist who has enough business to justify the gear. Motor & cycle wheel spokes are the best example. They should not be cut with a die as this method leaves potential fracture points. Dies are OK for cleaning up old but still serviceable spokes as long as you don't start to cut extra thread length whilst cleaning up.

You can see my ads. in "Restored Cars" and "Just Motor Bikes".

[Bigbjorn]

Okay for all the non fitters and turners, could you give us the same information - but in terms a moron like me can understand

Really like to understand this

Not without going into great length. I thought I had kept it simple. I suppose there are people who do not know the basic nomenclature, just as I would be lost in discussions of other professions. If we stick to the metric system this may help.

Nominal diameter- the outside measure of the threaded section of the bolt. M10 = 10 millimetres. Commercial fasteners are usually made a little undersize for ease of working. Possibly about 9.8 - 9.9 mm.

Pitch- the distance between adjoining crests of a thread. this is the distance a nut moves along the bolt in one complete turn. (Ok, wise guys, not always, but we are talking simplicity, not multi start threads). Expressed in millimetres in decimal not fraction. e.g. 1.5. The gear shift thread we have been discussing is M10 x 1.5.

Tapping drill- the drill size we need to use to make a hole in a piece of material into which we are going to use a tap to cut a new thread. This size is less than the nominal diameter as the tap is going to cut out material to form the thread.

Clearance drill- the drill size we need to use to insert the unthreaded shank of a bolt into the hole. If a through bolt we drill the clearance diameter right through the material and put a nut on the other side. If the bolt is going to screw into the material, then we use the smaller diameter tapping drill to drill the lower part (threaded part) of the hole and the clearance drill to drill the upper part which accepts the full nominal diameter of the bolt. If a cap screw, not a bolt, then we only drill with the tapping drill.

Most motor hobbyists are going to be cleaning up old threads and rarely cutting new ones. If you are into a restoration project where you are going to be making new components involving much thread cutting, particularly screw cutting on a lathe or other machine tool and you do not have the trade expertise, take a TAFE hobby machining course. Well worth the time and money.

[Blknight.aus]

Taps and dies are my business. Do you want me to send you one of each as proof? C.O.D. Best prices in Oz. The MSDC catalogue also lists M10 x 0.5, I did say in common use. They also list 5 pitches in M8, 5 in M12, 5 in M14, 6 in M16, 6 in M18, 5 in M20.

The only legal standard is ISO which is what manufacturers call Metric coarse. Any others do not appear in the ISO Standard. Refer Sidders Guide to World Screw Threads, or Machinery's Handbook 27th. Edition.

There are the following Metric thread systems that I know of:- ISO, French Metric, French Automotive, Swiss Engineering, Swiss Horological, DIN, Swedish Inst. Marine Engineers. Fortunately they all use the same 60 degree thread profile. The differences are in the pitches listed in the different standards and the tolerances.

I stock taps and dies in the following systems:- BSW, BSF, BSB, BSC, BSCon, Admiralty Fine, UNC, UNF, UNEF, UNS, Metric, ISO r & c (BSP), NP, all spark plug sizes, and a number of "specials" selected by manufacturers for God knows what reason. I have supplied any number of unlisted "specials" over the years, including the coach head bolts on Ford T trembler coils, 5/16" x 30 used on axles of penny farthing bicycles, 7/16 x 16 used on Harley WLA & UL headbolts and nowhere else to my knowledge, uncommon sizes in 20, 24, 26tpi common pitch systems used on motorcycles.

I do not stock BA or ME because of limited demand and there are people who are doing them well. The sales volume of these systems doesn't justify another competitor.

All the above systems are in use today somewhere around the world. There are others such as Thoury, Seller's, USS "V" thread, Waltham, etc. that have passed into history and are now only used by repairers/restorers.

Got a fastener problem with your project? Call Brian.

mate no chance of a catalog in the snail mail is there?