This is the other issue not being discussed, and that's time. I only do fairly low miles approx 10,000-12,000 kms per year, in the city, so not many highway kms either. Does the oil degrade with time?
Printable View
Hello,
I have a 2001 Auto brought it with 155,000km which currently has 225,000km.
To date i have had to change / fix the following.
Radiator
Radiator hoses.
Exahust mainfold gaskets / nuts - as warped
Uni Joints on front driveshaft - 165,000km
Front drive shaft - finally exploded 205,000km - luckly little damage to transmission
Fuel pressure reg
Head lining - stapled it back up.
Alternator belt
Alternator rebuild
Copper coolant pipe at the bottom, you know the one that leaks.
Current issues that are being monitored
Oil in the wiring harness - keep cleaning it when engine runs rough.
Battery going flat every now and again - cant locate fault.
Slight Oil leaks
RHF door lock, need key to open it now
I am an ex mechanic and do all my on servicing every 10,000km and repairs which i am able to do by myself.
At the end of the day its a 13 year old car and if you are going to use to go off roading and pull the family camper trailer things will wear out or break.
overall i am happy with it.
Stick with Penrite, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandnomad;2263838
So what is the best oil to use I wonder? My last mechanic used Castrol Synthetic (which [U
MY99 Defender Td5 165K
Serviced once a year or on Km. Whichever comes first All servicing done by me.
All filters changed regardless inc fuel & rota filter. Filters are cheap, repairs usually not!
I used Castrol recommended full synthetic engine oil. ALWAYS a lovely black colour when changed and "appears" clean, if that makes sense.
I have owned the car 6 years and so far the engine has been fine. It tows the camper ok but would like a little more punch up hills.
The things/repairs I have done to the motor are:-
1. Oil in harness - caused misfire (and thats how I found AULRO, thanks guys)
2. Re-chipped ECU - Good mod. And so far has been reliable. I hope I'm not jinxing myself with this thread :o
3. Replaced Turbo hoses with silicon. To be sure! I had no problems otherwise
4. Replaced all hoses and thermostat. To be sure - As above
5. Replaced belt tensioner, My first dealing with BritPart @$#%!!!!
6. Fuel leak from regulator. It was just a loose fuel hose. Tightened.
7. Faulty Air flow meter - replaced.
Things that are due this service:-
1. Has snapped an exhaust stud at the rear of the manifold - I'm expecting to find a warped manifold.
2. I have to replace the hose under the exhaust manifold. I fixed a leak recently but I prefer to use the gen hose.
I'm also going to replace the injector seals before I have any trouble with them.
My advise though, if you do buy a Td5 and service yourself, get a Nanocom or similar. Worth its weight in gold.
Cheers
Nino.
Yes has AC. Why? Please don't give me something else to worry about!!:o
Cheers
Sans AC makes it a bit easier to get the manifold off, no compressor and all that.
Not that difficult though.
Fwiw, get the manifold machined & de- web it. Don't stuff around with the snapped stud, if you can't get it out easily. There are mobile "stud removal " people who will come to your house, and do the job . Replace all studs [ before ringing the stud guy]
I assume you are talking about the " secret hose 'from the oil cooler to the radiator. If you have the up graded radiator, that hose can be removed, & the stub blanked off. Where the hose attaches to the new radiator, the hole is blanked off. Bob