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Thread: Cracked Chassis Mount

  1. #1
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    Cracked Chassis Mount

    Hey Guys,

    I've noticed a dull knock from felt like it was coming from under the front end if the car now i think i've found it !!

    IMAGE_00035.jpg

    IMAGE_00037.jpg

    So how do i go about lifting the chassis to re-weld it ? i only need to lift it about 10 - 15mm, will the chassis flex that far ??

  2. #2
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by LRDV8
    Hey Guys,

    I've noticed a dull knock from felt like it was coming from under the front end if the car now i think i've found it !!

    IMAGE_00035.jpg

    IMAGE_00037.jpg

    So how do i go about lifting the chassis to re-weld it ? i only need to lift it about 10 - 15mm, will the chassis flex that far ??
    You mean lifting the body off the chassis enough to MIG up the chassis bracket, don't you?..........maybe back off [but not take off] all the body to chassis bolts as possible and try lifting it up around this repair site.......you might have to see how much clearance you get doing it this way.......maybe others on here might have done this before with the body on......I've only done this with the body fully off - sorry I can't be more help.

  3. #3
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    yea thats right, i'm definatley not keen on taking the whole body off.

  4. #4
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    I would have thought that if you removed all four front mounting bolts/nuts and even the two half way up - this would give you enough flex to lift the body high enough off of the chassis

    You would want to be very carefull not to stretch/snap any pipes, wires etc.,

    Plus as it is a major structural item you need a bloody good weld - and as I have no idea of your welding ability - if you'r not a pro I would suggest you have someone who is to do it.

  5. #5
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    Hi
    I would fabricate a square "washer" from 2 or 3mm steel fit it,bolt it tight then tackweld the 2 sides,remove the nut then weld up.Just had a look at mine you should get the mig nozzle in with the nut removed,and plenty of room to stick weld it.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy
    Hi
    I would fabricate a square "washer" from 2 or 3mm steel fit it,bolt it tight then tackweld the 2 sides,remove the nut then weld up.Just had a look at mine you should get the mig nozzle in with the nut removed,and plenty of room to stick weld it.
    Andrew
    ditto

    just weld a small plate (washer) underneath to reinforce it.

  7. #7
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    yea that was my idea too, i cant really do anything to the top without obstrucuting the rubber mount.

    I think i will just run a fillet down each long side then bolt it back up that way it should transfer the load pretty well.

    only reason i want to lift it a little is so i don't melt the rubber spacer.

    thanks guys.

  8. #8
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    Hi
    Just had another look at mine.Once tacked inplace you sould be able to remove all the rubber and the bolt from inside the engine bay.Will give you more room to work.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  9. #9
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    cheers Andrew, appreciate it.

  10. #10
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by LRDV8
    ... only reason i want to lift it a little is so i don't melt the rubber spacer...thanks guys.
    Try wrapping the engine mount with a wet cloth to dissipate heat. Clamping a piece of metal to the job with some vice grips will also act as a heat sink. Jacking it enough to slide some thin ply or piece of plasterboard will also insulate the rubber from the heat.

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