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Thread: I wander

  1. #1
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    I wander

    Well, at least my steering does.
    on the ex mil109 badly - on the s11a not so bad.
    Looking through the manuals I see tha apart fromt the rocker box, there are only the ball joints to renovate. Correct?
    The 109 has is sensetive at the rocker arm to steering but gets lost further down.
    Q: Is it easier with a limited "no-workshop" to get a reco linkage system (read cheaper too)?
    Or is it just a case of split the whole thing up and repace the ballJoints?

    Also - Where can I find the millitary reg/numbers on the 109? Now I have the s2a I realise that the 109 just needs some love..diffs are good,gbox.
    Engine (6pot petrol LR) a bit smoky at idle - and it started overheating prior to leaving it for a while.

    Too many questions, but one day Ill be of use to the forum!! (after a rebuild or 8) I love this site.
    Now I don't know which to restore - AAAAAHHHHHHH~!

  2. #2
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    Hi William
    Because of the number of ball joints in the series steering a small amount of wear adds up to be a problem.Good news is they are reasonable priced,best to bite the bullet and replace them all first up,get the greasable type should last longer.Note some are LH thread,any good parts person should know this.
    Next check,you can adjust the preload on the steering box,ONLY A SMALL AMOUNT AS IT CAN DAMAGE THE BEARINGS INSIDE.Also fill it with Penrite semi fluid grease as the EP90 will have leaked out along time ago and will no longer hold the EP90 oil,very common fault.
    Next is the steering relay in the front Xmember,you can top up the EP90 with a syringe removing a maximum of 2 small bolts in the lid,DONT UNDO TO FIX AS THERE IS A HUGE SPRING PRESSURE INSIDE AND IT NEEDS TO BE DISMANTLED IN A PRESS!!!!.Easy to get a new one,readily available.
    Last fix is the railko bushes in the swivels,jack the wheel up and check for play,easy enough job,you should use a manual for guidance.
    Goodluck
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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  3. #3
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    thanks for that. Ill go through them.
    I see you had an LPG series. How was it? I'm thinking about it.

  4. #4
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    Restore the 2a and keep it as original as you can.
    Cheers

    Mick

    1999 Land Rover 110 Defender TD5 Cab Chassis
    1985 Land Rover 110 County 4.6 EFI V8
    1993 Track Trailer camper

  5. #5
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    The LPG was good,had a 120lt tank,never used petrol.Excellent off-road as there was no flooding that can happen with a carby designed for road use(had a 202 motor).If you have a holden motor I would fit it,if you have the original 2.5 I dont think it would handle the lower power with the LPG.Not the worlds most power packed engine to start with.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  6. #6
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    Yes - i can get a 179 for free - not a 186 but..
    So the plan would probably be to LPG the ex mil. It's a bit more roomy the the 2a. -
    The 2a will stay near standard - maybe some rangie diffs - or something to get the cruise speed up a notch.
    Ill lpg the 109 whilst there is a revenue return on it.

    Thanks all.

  7. #7
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    on the lpg front the rover engine runs fine on lpg its just very breathless and idles a bit piggish (well mine did and I was too lazy to fix it) and the 8:1 engines like it more than the 7:1's
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy
    Hi William
    Because of the number of ball joints in the series steering a small amount of wear adds up to be a problem.Good news is they are reasonable priced,best to bite the bullet and replace them all first up,get the greasable type should last longer.Note some are LH thread,any good parts person should know this.
    Next check,you can adjust the preload on the steering box,ONLY A SMALL AMOUNT AS IT CAN DAMAGE THE BEARINGS INSIDE.Also fill it with Penrite semi fluid grease as the EP90 will have leaked out along time ago and will no longer hold the EP90 oil,very common fault.
    Next is the steering relay in the front Xmember,you can top up the EP90 with a syringe removing a maximum of 2 small bolts in the lid,DONT UNDO TO FIX AS THERE IS A HUGE SPRING PRESSURE INSIDE AND IT NEEDS TO BE DISMANTLED IN A PRESS!!!!.Easy to get a new one,readily available.
    Last fix is the railko bushes in the swivels,jack the wheel up and check for play,easy enough job,you should use a manual for guidance.
    Goodluck
    Andrew
    Other things to check would be loose wheel bearings and U-bolts, shackle bushes and pins both front and rear - any play here will cause wandering.
    Also check that none of the steering arms are loose - steering box, top and bottom of relay, and on the swivels; not very likely, but it does happen.
    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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