Thread: The Big one (caution - Long Post)

Brake booster.

The Ser3 will have a dual circuit vacuum boosted brake system,much safer in 2 ways,the boosting means a lot less pedal effort and the dual circuit system means the front and rear systems are seperate.If 1 system fails there still is some braking effort,instead of loosing the lot.If you are changing the systems over buy new tubing,a roll should cost around $70 to do the whole job,you will need a pipe bender,pipe cutter and double flare flaring tool,re-use the exsisting fittings.Its not rocket science and gives you piece of mind knowing its all new and the pipes are clean not full of rust waiting to burst.
Goodluck
Andrew

Has anyone got any pics or diagrams of how to hook up the s3 booster into a 2a ?
Cheers,

peter

its a bolt in unit, trace all the lines on the S3 and then recreate them on the 2a, then unbolt the master cyl from the pedal tower, unbolt the pedal tower and swap..

Id also go to the extent of swapping the swivels from the lwb to the SWB so you also get the bigger brakes on the front...

keep the 2a box for now, fit the S3 tcase and if money is really that tight, Id look into a mechanically injected diesel and feed it WVO. I did it in townsville for a while and it ran cheap as chips, litterally, alternateivley if you home brew, build a still as well and run ethanol with the fuel..

and your in luck Im headed up your way in less than 3 months and Im happy to help out and donate any of the parts that have finally breached the fine line between being viewed as "my quality spare parts" and "stuff my wife wants disposed of to clear up space for more stuff".

yes - i was looking at the 11 inch drums - I may leave those for now
It's a bloody shame the 109 will be on the register at rmlr somewhere.

still, I DO have a nice 2a - and money wont always be such an issue.

Thanks for the offer, it's appreciated. Earlier I decided that if I have to take stuff off the ex mil 109 I will probably donate the remainder to millitary collecters/restorers on this site.

Just buy yourself a shed and start collecting.

Originally Posted by WilliamB

S3 Booster?

Yes - an overdrive would be good - need to find one tho - I can get the diffs immediately - overdrive a bit trickier.

I agree with the above regarding keeping origional - I would keep the origional parts.

2a gearbox noisy, not really stuffed doesn't like changing int 2nd from 3rd without a crunch.

Constrained by money and running cost and a love of seriesLRs.

William, unless you can buy a NEW Overdrive unit fot your Landy, STEER clear of second hand ones, they are ridiculously expensive to repair, and I will bet you wont find a secondhand O/D that will not need reconditioning, I have been looking for a good used O/D unit for mine and have not yet found one that wouldn't have cost me at least $1600 to get up to standard, If an O/D unit breaks you have no drive at all, I have given up on finding a good usuable O/D and am going to opt for the High Speed Transfer case Gears, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

its a bolt in unit, trace all the lines on the S3 and then recreate them on the 2a, then unbolt the master cyl from the pedal tower, unbolt the pedal tower and swap..

Id also go to the extent of swapping the swivels from the lwb to the SWB so you also get the bigger brakes on the front...

keep the 2a box for now, fit the S3 tcase and if money is really that tight, Id look into a mechanically injected diesel and feed it WVO. I did it in townsville for a while and it ran cheap as chips, litterally, alternateivley if you home brew, build a still as well and run ethanol with the fuel..

and your in luck Im headed up your way in less than 3 months and Im happy to help out and donate any of the parts that have finally breached the fine line between being viewed as "my quality spare parts" and "stuff my wife wants disposed of to clear up space for more stuff".

He should be able to fit everything from the master cyl/booster down to the brake failure valve (from the series 3) and the front hard lines/pipes on the axle itself (from series 3). Everything rearward can stay. Can't it? unless of course there's a thread size issues. I can't remember.

As usual I stand to be corrected.