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Thread: Classic > Stalling when hot and idling in D

  1. #1
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    Classic > Stalling when hot and idling in D

    I knew it would not be too long until I begged for help after buying a '93 Classic.

    Apart from the usual stuff - took it to Cooper's for a 180K service, it's displayed that it's prone to stall when hot / in traffic and holding on the footbrake when in drive. have to shift pretty quick to N to keep engine going.

    No problems starting it back up, fuel lines all clear, sparks all new etc.

    Can only assume that something (prepare for technical explaination here...) it's something like the throttle idler cable that expands and sticks? It's the load on the engine when in D that seems to be doing it.

    Any ideas as to what i can bash, tweak or replace to fix this myself?

    Happy New Year, everyone.

  2. #2
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    1) Clean throttle body and throttle plate of all carbon and filth, check all inlet manifold bolts for tighteness and for any vacuum leaks.
    2) check throttle air gap and adjust to .05mm
    3) Warm engine and adjust base idle by crimping rear air pipe from stepper motor housing, then adjust air bypass with3/16" hex key until idle at 750rpm in park.
    4) Check ignition timing, adjust to 9Deg BTDC and check advance is working.
    5) Hold onto your hat while driving.


    JC

  3. #3
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    you havent mentioned the TPS.......or are these the later non adjustable ones.....

    i cant remember when they changed.......

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc
    4) Check ignition timing, adjust to 9Deg BTDC and check advance is working.
    5) Hold onto your hat while driving.
    JC

    yep,,, and yep.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #5
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    A slow TPS is a major reason for this. Does it stall with load on from aircon? So clean the TPS also.
    Also dirty injectors can contribute. At 180K your injectors are probably just dribbling away. They should be renewed periodically but nobody does.
    4 Hole injectors make a big difference to idle quality.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
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    Another great installment of advice - I got 5) right in Justin's post.....something everyone should know well when owning any landy.

    New injectors were done on the 180K - simply a case of the low idle setting, re-set it a few revs higher and it all seems good.

    Just got to sort the rest of the problems now.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    you havent mentioned the TPS.......or are these the later non adjustable ones.....

    i cant remember when they changed.......
    OOPS! Sorry, I forgot the important bit. Zook is right, they aren't supposed to be adjustable, but they are if you remove them and slot the holes to allow rotation, as most are out of adjustment by now. It needs to be set at 320mV at rest, ignition on. I think it is between the red and green wires that you put the meter, although I can't remember if the wiring colours changed like in the disco1 , which have a different connector also, I'll have to have a look.
    If this is out of adjustment, the ECU thinks the throttle is opening and changes the injector pulse width accordingly. This can cause poor idle definately.
    I plead insanity due to having a late night.....

    JC

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA
    A slow TPS is a major reason for this. Does it stall with load on from aircon? So clean the TPS also.
    Also dirty injectors can contribute. At 180K your injectors are probably just dribbling away. They should be renewed periodically but nobody does.
    4 Hole injectors make a big difference to idle quality.
    Regards Philip A



    i think you mean stepper motor instead of TPS.......

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