Thread: spray on anti-rust treatments?

My 90 was covered in Waxoyl underneth before it left the UK
But that only because we do it every year or other depending on what you do with the truck. Good stuff. Bloody messy job though

I went for Lanotech, both a pressure pack and 1.5l pump pack. It does not skin like fish oil or waxiol (so does not capture any moisture either), seems to creep into all the nearby cracks and joints, can be cleaned off with a little turps when you spray it on painted surfaces.
Guys at Coffs Harbour put me on to it when asked how they kept the rust away from their Nissans and Toyos. I have so far pretty much gone over the whole underneath, inside chassis, doors and back lower door, and apart from the dribbles onto the driveway... no complaints. After I visit the coast and beach, will probably have another go.

I have used Fishoilene and Lanotec.

The fishy one does tend to form unsightly brown dribbles when it hardens and takes a while to get off paint.

Lanotec seems to work well over paint, but because it never really dries, it attracts dirt. I used it outside on a rusty shed door on bright metal, after a few weeks the rust came back.

I am trying to get hold of some Dinitrol from SA, which has good reports, but never seems to be available.

cheers Chazza

Originally Posted by downundersteve

Apart from that though maybe the oil would be good for inside the chasis but using it underbody, wouldn't it just wash off?

Fish oil dries (eventually) to form a hard layer, that will not wash off. Deodorised fish oil has almost no smell. Make sure you spply it at least 1 week or more before you go to the beach. I once fishoiled the chassis and underbody a few days before going to the beach. When I got back was sand stuck to the outside of the chassis - embedded in the (now hard) fish oil...

A guy I know polishes the leather seats in his new rangie with the lanotech stuff!!!

when I worked at Leyland Truck &Bus, then the LR/RR distributors, we weree asked from time to time about rust proofing chassis on cars that were going to be beached. Most of The LR business in those days was to the agricultural and pastoral industries, and the various levels of governemnt. The rereational market was increasing on the back of the success of the RR. So our delivery dept. got in touch with an engineer specialising in corrosion prevention. He came up with a scheme which he said would be as good as any in delaying corrosion of vehicles used in a hostile environment. He said that if operators insisted in immersing the vehicles in corrosive liquids (salt water and moist bach sand) then they would corrode eventually, this was inevitable, no matter what treatment they had. He recommended thinning one of the active rust preventers ( Tectyl, Rustlac, Corroless) with turps or thinners and squirting it into the chassis box sections in sufficient quantity to slop around, plugging the holes in the chassis with rubber bungs, spraying a coat of tarepoxy over the undersides, then a thick coat of one of the active compounds. Some of these are self-repairing to a certain extent, in that they will flow to refill minor scratches in the surface.

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

when I worked at Leyland Truck &Bus, then the LR/RR distributors, we weree asked from time to time about rust proofing chassis on cars that were going to be beached. Most of The LR business in those days was to the agricultural and pastoral industries, and the various levels of governemnt. The rereational market was increasing on the back of the success of the RR. So our delivery dept. got in touch with an engineer specialising in corrosion prevention. He came up with a scheme which he said would be as good as any in delaying corrosion of vehicles used in a hostile environment. He said that if operators insisted in immersing the vehicles in corrosive liquids (salt water and moist bach sand) then they would corrode eventually, this was inevitable, no matter what treatment they had. He recommended thinning one of the active rust preventers ( Tectyl, Rustlac, Corroless) with turps or thinners and squirting it into the chassis box sections in sufficient quantity to slop around, plugging the holes in the chassis with rubber bungs, spraying a coat of tarepoxy over the undersides, then a thick coat of one of the active compounds. Some of these are self-repairing to a certain extent, in that they will flow to refill minor scratches in the surface.

If you think of it though this sounds like a standardised answer so if the car eventually rusted the manufacturer would not be liable for a new vehicle.

As the circumstances of usage of the vehicle, the maintenance of, and repair of damage to, the preventative coating is beyond the control of the manufacturer, then no guarantee can be given. The engineer was quite correct. In a hostile environment, corrosion is inevitable. Look at ships. Rust chipping and repainting starts almost from when they hit the water new. Look at trucks and mobile plant used in coal mines, fertilizer plants, salt processors, and so on. I have seen two year old earthmoving plant in fertilizer and salt processing that broke in two from corrosion in spite of a maintenace programme. We once had sales and service rpresentatives address a meeting of a major 4WD Club. A question from the floor was "Why don't LandRovers have galvanised chassis as standard, as they already have aluminium bodies, this would make them the absolute vehicle of choice for beach work. This was flick passed to me as the spokesman for sales and finance. The answer? Simple. Less than 5% of new LandRovers then were used on the beach for any time at all. The other 95+% of new LR buyers did not need galvanised chassis, nor should they be expected to pay for them.